A few weeks ago I was asked if I would take two turtles from a colleague at work who was moving house and would no longer have an environment for them. They had "arrived" spontaneoulsy in his garden, located in a suburb of Jakarta known for (even named for) turtles some time earlier. My friend did not know what kind of turtle they were but based on his description I was expecting one Cuoro Amboiensis (I was right) and one Asian Softshell (I was wrong). The softshell turned out to be a beautiful female Cyclemys Dentata.
To the right you can see photos of the new Cuoro Amboiensis, a male - it may be a sub-type; and the female Cyclemys Dentata. Both are doing well in the pond. You can also see my daughter's guinea pigs and even my daughter, Sarah, herself. Look in again; there'll be more additions soon.
Saturday 5 December 2009
Friday 21 August 2009
Pictures of my Turtles
To the right I have uploaded some pictures of my turtles. There are Asian Leaf Turtles, Malayan Box Turtles, a Borneo Black Marsh Turtle and a Sulawesi Tortoise. You can see their formal Latin designations in the article entitled My Turtles. They are shown swimming, climbing, sitting on the lawn and among the rocks. It's difficult to get good quality shots but these give a reasonable indication of what they look like. In this climate these animals are quite easy to keep. They biggest problem is maintaining their health as they can be prone to parasites and infections.
Thursday 20 August 2009
The Simplicity Of Pond Maintenance
Submitted By: Joel Stephens
Believe it or not, a well-constructed pond should take less maintenance than a lawn that is aerated, fertilized & mowed with any semblance of consistency. Why? Because the whole idea behind creating a great pond is the formation of an independent ecosystem...a self-sustaining habitat for both flora & fauna. If the groundwork is properly laid, there are only a few things to worry about to ensure that your koi or goldfish never go "Belly Up". Stick to these basic points of pond maintenance, and you should be able to enjoy your new ecosystem for many years to come.
One of the most important things you should concern yourself with is the water level.
Evaporation is a natural aspect of any ecosystem, and it must be monitored weekly. Unlike a sea or lake of any kind of volume, your pond does not have the ability to hold as much water during the rainy seasons as it will lose during the dry seasons. Check the levels often & fill as needed to ensure a fresh infusing of water for the health and safety of all plant & animal life in your habitat. If your level has not dropped 10% in 3 weeks, pump some of your water out and add fresh water in. Be sure to add a dechlorinator to offset the amount chlorine that is in the new water. Follow the instructions of the specific product's packaging for optimal performance.
Next, check your pond for decaying plants and other debris that could "break down" at the bottom of your pond. This "break down" can release toxins that will harm, and even kill, your fish over time. Besides being unhealthy for your water features ecosystem, no one wants to gather around a pond that is full of rotting plants and algae all summer long. Take a few minutes and remove any thing that you find from the bottom of your pond at least every 2 weeks.
Finally, check your ponds filtering system every 5 weeks for clogs or other obstructions that would inhibit the proper flow of water. Remember, your filter should be running 24/7 with no interruptions, turning over the total water volume in about 2 hours. If it stops for even a few hours, it could lose a huge amount of its beneficial bacteria. To gain this back could take upwards of 4 weeks depending on what was lost! You will need to clean your filter as often as necessary to ensure a healthy ecosystem for your pond. The frequency will vary greatly depending on what type of filter you are using, and how large your pond is. Some mechanical filters will need to be cleaned monthly while a good biomechanical (mat based) filter may only need to be cleaned 2-3 times per year! The best way to know is to always check your water clarity! The less clear, the less filtration!
With a little bit of maintenance, a pond can become a wonderfully relaxing place for the entire family to enjoy. Follow these simple rules, with a little bit of consistency, and your pond will give you nothing but pleasure for many years to come.
Published At: Isnare Free Articles Directory http://www.isnare.comPermanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=245078&ca=Gardening
About Joel Stephens
After being a student of the University of Oregon's Architecture & Allied Arts program, Joel Stephens began a 10-year journey in furniture design & manufacturing. As well as being an ASID Industry Partner for lines he created, Joel established Peniel Products, an online retailer of Home Furnishings and Decor.
Source: www.Isnare.com
Believe it or not, a well-constructed pond should take less maintenance than a lawn that is aerated, fertilized & mowed with any semblance of consistency. Why? Because the whole idea behind creating a great pond is the formation of an independent ecosystem...a self-sustaining habitat for both flora & fauna. If the groundwork is properly laid, there are only a few things to worry about to ensure that your koi or goldfish never go "Belly Up". Stick to these basic points of pond maintenance, and you should be able to enjoy your new ecosystem for many years to come.
One of the most important things you should concern yourself with is the water level.
Evaporation is a natural aspect of any ecosystem, and it must be monitored weekly. Unlike a sea or lake of any kind of volume, your pond does not have the ability to hold as much water during the rainy seasons as it will lose during the dry seasons. Check the levels often & fill as needed to ensure a fresh infusing of water for the health and safety of all plant & animal life in your habitat. If your level has not dropped 10% in 3 weeks, pump some of your water out and add fresh water in. Be sure to add a dechlorinator to offset the amount chlorine that is in the new water. Follow the instructions of the specific product's packaging for optimal performance.
Next, check your pond for decaying plants and other debris that could "break down" at the bottom of your pond. This "break down" can release toxins that will harm, and even kill, your fish over time. Besides being unhealthy for your water features ecosystem, no one wants to gather around a pond that is full of rotting plants and algae all summer long. Take a few minutes and remove any thing that you find from the bottom of your pond at least every 2 weeks.
Finally, check your ponds filtering system every 5 weeks for clogs or other obstructions that would inhibit the proper flow of water. Remember, your filter should be running 24/7 with no interruptions, turning over the total water volume in about 2 hours. If it stops for even a few hours, it could lose a huge amount of its beneficial bacteria. To gain this back could take upwards of 4 weeks depending on what was lost! You will need to clean your filter as often as necessary to ensure a healthy ecosystem for your pond. The frequency will vary greatly depending on what type of filter you are using, and how large your pond is. Some mechanical filters will need to be cleaned monthly while a good biomechanical (mat based) filter may only need to be cleaned 2-3 times per year! The best way to know is to always check your water clarity! The less clear, the less filtration!
With a little bit of maintenance, a pond can become a wonderfully relaxing place for the entire family to enjoy. Follow these simple rules, with a little bit of consistency, and your pond will give you nothing but pleasure for many years to come.
Published At: Isnare Free Articles Directory http://www.isnare.comPermanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=245078&ca=Gardening
About Joel Stephens
After being a student of the University of Oregon's Architecture & Allied Arts program, Joel Stephens began a 10-year journey in furniture design & manufacturing. As well as being an ASID Industry Partner for lines he created, Joel established Peniel Products, an online retailer of Home Furnishings and Decor.
Source: www.Isnare.com
Designing Garden Ponds
Submitted By: Joel Stephens
The design of ponds, or garden ponds as they are often called, can seem a little bit daunting at first. A myriad of questions can arise that may confuse or discourage a homeowner from even beginning the project. How big should the pond be? Should it be a garden pond, a koi pond or a swimming pond? Can I implement the features I want? Even though the "pros" would like you to think the answers to these and other questions are worth paying them hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars, I am here to tell you that life is not that hard. A garden pond is not only one of the simpler things to install within a landscape, it is also one of the most rewarding. If you can answer these questions about your dreams for your pond, you will be well on your way to enjoying the pearl of your outdoor environment!
The first, and most important, question you must ask yourself is "What is the purpose of this garden pond?" Every Pond must be there for a reason. These don't have to be earth-shattering motivations, but we must understand that the pond exists to fill a need in our lives. What is that need for you? Do you desire the ambience that a garden pond can create, with its bubbling fountains and gentle splashing of cascading water? Or maybe you want to see birds drinking from your garden pond and see the fish swimming around the base of the lily pads. If you're like me, your pond should be deep enough to give you a place to cool off in the hot summer sun, while also tickling your ears! Whatever your reasons for creating a pond, make sure that they are truly YOUR reasons. You don't want to go through all the work of building a retreat, only to not take proper pleasure from it!
The second question you need to answer is "What type of pond will fill this need?" There are 3 main types of ponds to choose from. The first (and most popular) pond is called a Water Garden. A water garden is a pond created to support both plant and animal life. It can be fairly small, to accommodate small spaces, and should have fish that do not grow too large. The second type of pond is the Koi Pond. Koi Ponds are much larger than a standard Water Garden simply because Koi fish tend to grow quite large. Koi Ponds can also only sustain certain types of flora because Koi fish love to nibble on plants! The third type of pond to choose from is the Swimming Pond, my favorite! The Swimming Pond's main defining attribute is its ability to accommodate full immersion, with a depth capable of cooling off even the hottest of homeowners. Some of you may be thinking of combining the Koi Pond with the Swimming Pond into a hybrid of sorts, and just for the record, I don't recommend it! Koi fish like tranquility and the shock of a swimming buddy may be a bit too much for them. They may also disappear into a depth that makes them difficult to see. Who wants a Koi pond if you can't see the Koi fish?
The final question is concerning the features of your garden pond. What do you want to see in your landscape? Do you love the look of water spilling over the edge of a fall? Maybe you're into the gentle sounds of streams feeding into your pond with a soothing steadiness found only in nature! What about the strength and longevity of a properly placed boulder here and there? No matter what features you choose, the most important factor to consider at this stage is cost!
What is your overall budget? Try to stick to that as closely as possible. The worst feeling in the world is a pond project that is meant to bring peace and serenity, halted by a lack of funds!
Garden Ponds can be a welcome addition to any outdoor space! With a little time, and some honest answers to simple questions, anyone can create a pond that fills their space with the exact ambience that they desire. Just remember, the best person to design your garden pond is YOU (because you have to live with it)!
Published At: Isnare Free Articles Directory http://www.isnare.comPermanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=399644&ca=Home+Management
About Joel Stephens
After being a student of the University of Oregon's Architecture & Allied Arts program, Joel Stephens began a 10-year journey in furniture design & manufacturing. As well as being an ASID Industry Partner for lines he created, Joel established Peniel Products, an online retailer of Home Furnishings and Decor.
Source: www.Isnare.com
The design of ponds, or garden ponds as they are often called, can seem a little bit daunting at first. A myriad of questions can arise that may confuse or discourage a homeowner from even beginning the project. How big should the pond be? Should it be a garden pond, a koi pond or a swimming pond? Can I implement the features I want? Even though the "pros" would like you to think the answers to these and other questions are worth paying them hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars, I am here to tell you that life is not that hard. A garden pond is not only one of the simpler things to install within a landscape, it is also one of the most rewarding. If you can answer these questions about your dreams for your pond, you will be well on your way to enjoying the pearl of your outdoor environment!
The first, and most important, question you must ask yourself is "What is the purpose of this garden pond?" Every Pond must be there for a reason. These don't have to be earth-shattering motivations, but we must understand that the pond exists to fill a need in our lives. What is that need for you? Do you desire the ambience that a garden pond can create, with its bubbling fountains and gentle splashing of cascading water? Or maybe you want to see birds drinking from your garden pond and see the fish swimming around the base of the lily pads. If you're like me, your pond should be deep enough to give you a place to cool off in the hot summer sun, while also tickling your ears! Whatever your reasons for creating a pond, make sure that they are truly YOUR reasons. You don't want to go through all the work of building a retreat, only to not take proper pleasure from it!
The second question you need to answer is "What type of pond will fill this need?" There are 3 main types of ponds to choose from. The first (and most popular) pond is called a Water Garden. A water garden is a pond created to support both plant and animal life. It can be fairly small, to accommodate small spaces, and should have fish that do not grow too large. The second type of pond is the Koi Pond. Koi Ponds are much larger than a standard Water Garden simply because Koi fish tend to grow quite large. Koi Ponds can also only sustain certain types of flora because Koi fish love to nibble on plants! The third type of pond to choose from is the Swimming Pond, my favorite! The Swimming Pond's main defining attribute is its ability to accommodate full immersion, with a depth capable of cooling off even the hottest of homeowners. Some of you may be thinking of combining the Koi Pond with the Swimming Pond into a hybrid of sorts, and just for the record, I don't recommend it! Koi fish like tranquility and the shock of a swimming buddy may be a bit too much for them. They may also disappear into a depth that makes them difficult to see. Who wants a Koi pond if you can't see the Koi fish?
The final question is concerning the features of your garden pond. What do you want to see in your landscape? Do you love the look of water spilling over the edge of a fall? Maybe you're into the gentle sounds of streams feeding into your pond with a soothing steadiness found only in nature! What about the strength and longevity of a properly placed boulder here and there? No matter what features you choose, the most important factor to consider at this stage is cost!
What is your overall budget? Try to stick to that as closely as possible. The worst feeling in the world is a pond project that is meant to bring peace and serenity, halted by a lack of funds!
Garden Ponds can be a welcome addition to any outdoor space! With a little time, and some honest answers to simple questions, anyone can create a pond that fills their space with the exact ambience that they desire. Just remember, the best person to design your garden pond is YOU (because you have to live with it)!
Published At: Isnare Free Articles Directory http://www.isnare.comPermanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=399644&ca=Home+Management
About Joel Stephens
After being a student of the University of Oregon's Architecture & Allied Arts program, Joel Stephens began a 10-year journey in furniture design & manufacturing. As well as being an ASID Industry Partner for lines he created, Joel established Peniel Products, an online retailer of Home Furnishings and Decor.
Source: www.Isnare.com
Garden Pond Construction
By Philip Swindells
The construction of a garden pond demands considerable care and attention, but is well within the capabilities of most practical gardeners. There are a number of different methods of construction, each having virtues from both a practical and aesthetic point of view. The most important factors are ensuring that the structure is secure and water-tight, and that the accommodation afforded is suitable for the plants and fishes that it is intended to introduce. Careful planning is an essential ingredient for success.
Pond liners are the most popular option and available in a variety of materials. They enable the water gardener to create almost any fanciful shape or design of pond and to easily add a very functional bog garden. They are, however, the most vulnerable to damage, although if carefully constructed and maintained the risk is minimal. Make sure that the material selected is the most appropriate for the pond and the construction method being proposed.
Pre-formed ponds place some constraints upon the imaginative garden designer as they are a rigid shape. Not usually a constraint for the formal water gardener who requires a particular pre-determined formal shape and size, but limiting when an informal pond is envisaged, although in recent years the designs of pre-formed pond shapes have greatly improved. The introduction of modern materials has also led to improvements, some of the restrictions of earlier technology now having been removed.
Concrete ponds do not have quite the same following as previously, but are still constructed for some larger projects, especially as fish ponds, and by serious fish hobbyists who are involved in specialized fish breeding and showing. Although the construction of a concrete pond is never going to be easy, some of the previous problems that have placed limitations upon concrete construction for the home gardener have been overcome with the introduction of various additives. This has been especially important in the areas of temperature as it affects the laying of concrete and its subsequent hardness and resilience. Internal waterproofing techniques, as well as external sealants have also been greatly improved.
The greatest revolution, however, has been seen with the introduction of bentonite, especially the bentonite blanket. This has enabled the traditional method of clay puddling to be revived in a different form. The bentonite blanket comprises a specialized clay layer between geo-textile fabric that enables the gardener to line an excavation with natural clay, but without the attendant problems associated with old-fashioned clay puddling. Leaks are virtually unknown as the blanket is self-sealing.
Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers' Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He is currently editor of www.internationalwatergardener.com
Posted on Apr 7th, 2006 to Articlesbase Free Online Articles Directory http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/garden-pond-construction-21635.html
The construction of a garden pond demands considerable care and attention, but is well within the capabilities of most practical gardeners. There are a number of different methods of construction, each having virtues from both a practical and aesthetic point of view. The most important factors are ensuring that the structure is secure and water-tight, and that the accommodation afforded is suitable for the plants and fishes that it is intended to introduce. Careful planning is an essential ingredient for success.
Pond liners are the most popular option and available in a variety of materials. They enable the water gardener to create almost any fanciful shape or design of pond and to easily add a very functional bog garden. They are, however, the most vulnerable to damage, although if carefully constructed and maintained the risk is minimal. Make sure that the material selected is the most appropriate for the pond and the construction method being proposed.
Pre-formed ponds place some constraints upon the imaginative garden designer as they are a rigid shape. Not usually a constraint for the formal water gardener who requires a particular pre-determined formal shape and size, but limiting when an informal pond is envisaged, although in recent years the designs of pre-formed pond shapes have greatly improved. The introduction of modern materials has also led to improvements, some of the restrictions of earlier technology now having been removed.
Concrete ponds do not have quite the same following as previously, but are still constructed for some larger projects, especially as fish ponds, and by serious fish hobbyists who are involved in specialized fish breeding and showing. Although the construction of a concrete pond is never going to be easy, some of the previous problems that have placed limitations upon concrete construction for the home gardener have been overcome with the introduction of various additives. This has been especially important in the areas of temperature as it affects the laying of concrete and its subsequent hardness and resilience. Internal waterproofing techniques, as well as external sealants have also been greatly improved.
The greatest revolution, however, has been seen with the introduction of bentonite, especially the bentonite blanket. This has enabled the traditional method of clay puddling to be revived in a different form. The bentonite blanket comprises a specialized clay layer between geo-textile fabric that enables the gardener to line an excavation with natural clay, but without the attendant problems associated with old-fashioned clay puddling. Leaks are virtually unknown as the blanket is self-sealing.
Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers' Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He is currently editor of www.internationalwatergardener.com
Posted on Apr 7th, 2006 to Articlesbase Free Online Articles Directory http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/garden-pond-construction-21635.html
Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard
Building the perfect pond for your backyard garden can be a do-it yourself activity or you can hire a professional to do it for you. It’s really not that hard but does require some research and certain knowledge about landscaping in order to get it right.
DIYs
Building the perfect pond for your backyard garden can be a do-it yourself activity or you can hire a professional to do it for you. It's really not that hard but does require some research and certain knowledge about landscaping in order to get it right. You need to get a good book and read up on it or ask some friends and professionals about the idea of building a pond in your garden. For now, here is a brief discussion on how to build that pond that you've always wanted in your garden.
Situate the Pond
Basically the first step to building a pond is to find a suitable spot to dig a hole in your garden. The size and depth of the pond should be proportional to size of your garden. A liner will also be needed for the pond. You can buy and place a prefabricated fiberglass piece or have the choice free forming your pond with rubber roofing material or similar to it. In any case, a liner is a must for ponds to keep the water fromdraining.
If you are planning to breed fishes in the pond, you need to consider the depth. You have to make sure thatthe pond is deep enough for the fishes. In colder climates, the pond should be deeper than the frost line and making sure that the fishes have still enough room to go to.
Ponds should not be placed near trees, shaded, or low areas. Plant life, especially lilies, and fishes need the warmth of the sun. Falling leaves can also accumulate fast and cause a cleaning nightmare. Low areas cause large volume of rainwater runoff to enter the pond. Rainwater runoff may contain chemicals coming from pesticides and fertilizers which can be harmful to pond plants and fishes.
Filtration
Building a pond also requires the owners to put some thought on how to filter off the waste that accumulates in it. A good thing to remember is that the bigger the water area the better it can handle the waste coming from the fishes. Keep in mind that you will need to put some kind of substrate or gravel so that a bacteria bed can build up and help maintain the water in good quality. You can buy good filters and gravel in your local pet stores.
If you are building a pond to keep a school of gold fish or other kinds of fishes, wait until you have covered the bottom with gravel and placed a good filtering machine. Like an aquarium or a fish tank, you should introduce a fish to the pond one at a time. Allow some time for the environment of the pond to adjust with the population. If you dump all of the fish you intend to place in the pond, they probably would not survive the environment because the natural filtering of the bacteria will not be able to handle the waste of the fishes and their food.
Filters can also help to ensure that your pond doesn't become a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Mosquitoes lay their eggs on still waters, so anything that agitates the eggs will help prevent the pond to become a breeding ground. Filters help maintain the waters clean but regular cleaning is still needed to maintain the quality of the pond.
Nicholas Tan has been involved in Article Writing, providing Free Articles, Internet Marketing, SEO, Adwords, & Adsense for more than 5 years and designs and develops websites. Submit your free articles and get your articles noticed! Get your Free Articles here! Submit Articles! We provide free articles and information. Check us out at Free Articles!
Copyright (c) 2008 Free Online Library
Tan, Nicholas. (2008, December 1). Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard The Free Library. (2008). Retrieved August 18, 2009 from http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard-a01073918878
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard-a01073918878
Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard
DIYs
Building the perfect pond for your backyard garden can be a do-it yourself activity or you can hire a professional to do it for you. It's really not that hard but does require some research and certain knowledge about landscaping in order to get it right. You need to get a good book and read up on it or ask some friends and professionals about the idea of building a pond in your garden. For now, here is a brief discussion on how to build that pond that you've always wanted in your garden.
Situate the Pond
Basically the first step to building a pond is to find a suitable spot to dig a hole in your garden. The size and depth of the pond should be proportional to size of your garden. A liner will also be needed for the pond. You can buy and place a prefabricated fiberglass piece or have the choice free forming your pond with rubber roofing material or similar to it. In any case, a liner is a must for ponds to keep the water fromdraining.
If you are planning to breed fishes in the pond, you need to consider the depth. You have to make sure thatthe pond is deep enough for the fishes. In colder climates, the pond should be deeper than the frost line and making sure that the fishes have still enough room to go to.
Ponds should not be placed near trees, shaded, or low areas. Plant life, especially lilies, and fishes need the warmth of the sun. Falling leaves can also accumulate fast and cause a cleaning nightmare. Low areas cause large volume of rainwater runoff to enter the pond. Rainwater runoff may contain chemicals coming from pesticides and fertilizers which can be harmful to pond plants and fishes.
Filtration
Building a pond also requires the owners to put some thought on how to filter off the waste that accumulates in it. A good thing to remember is that the bigger the water area the better it can handle the waste coming from the fishes. Keep in mind that you will need to put some kind of substrate or gravel so that a bacteria bed can build up and help maintain the water in good quality. You can buy good filters and gravel in your local pet stores.
If you are building a pond to keep a school of gold fish or other kinds of fishes, wait until you have covered the bottom with gravel and placed a good filtering machine. Like an aquarium or a fish tank, you should introduce a fish to the pond one at a time. Allow some time for the environment of the pond to adjust with the population. If you dump all of the fish you intend to place in the pond, they probably would not survive the environment because the natural filtering of the bacteria will not be able to handle the waste of the fishes and their food.
Filters can also help to ensure that your pond doesn't become a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Mosquitoes lay their eggs on still waters, so anything that agitates the eggs will help prevent the pond to become a breeding ground. Filters help maintain the waters clean but regular cleaning is still needed to maintain the quality of the pond.
Nicholas Tan has been involved in Article Writing, providing Free Articles, Internet Marketing, SEO, Adwords, & Adsense for more than 5 years and designs and develops websites. Submit your free articles and get your articles noticed! Get your Free Articles here! Submit Articles! We provide free articles and information. Check us out at Free Articles!
Copyright (c) 2008 Free Online Library
Tan, Nicholas. (2008, December 1). Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard The Free Library. (2008). Retrieved August 18, 2009 from http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard-a01073918878
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard-a01073918878
Fish Pond Building A Fish Pond for Your Own Backyard
Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation
A backyard fish pond offers an aesthetic addition to your landscapes. Installing projects such as these will offer tranquility and relaxation to the whole family as well.
Aesthetic Appeal
A backyard fish pond offers a aesthetic addition to your landscapes. Installing projects such as these will offer tranquility and relaxation to the whole family as well. However, building, constructing, and taking care of ponds are not as easy as you think. Much effort, planning, and money must go into these. It is important that you think things through before deciding on installing your very own back yard fish pond.
Building fish ponds are not as simple as installing it and letting it go afterwards. It is a consistent and constant endeavor, much like a hobby. Maintenance should be done periodically. Following some of these guidelines may aid you in installing a do it yourself backyard fish pond.
First Tip: Utilize a plastic fish pond liner for your pond.
In separating the fish pond from the surrounding soil, it is better to use a plastic liner (PVC liners work best). It prevents the escape of the aquatic plants, fishes, and other pond contents from the fish pond. In accordance to this, it also prevents the entry of nutrients from the soil or other non pond materials. This will make maintenance and cleaning easier since you will only have to deal with the mess and dirt of the pond itself and the fish that live there.
In building the pond of your preferred size, pond liners are the option to choose. Usually, they are utilized for large ponds that do not have pre-formed sizes available.
However, it is imperative that you choose the right size of the pond liner. Pond lines or liners are used for any size of pond. The sizes available for this kind of pond is 10'' x 15'' to 20'' x 25'' or larger. This can allow you to build a pond to your preferred size either by using them individually or by connecting together two or more pond liners with an adhesive especially made for this material.
A cement pond liner will also do, however, this option is more expensive and may require extra labor in constructing.
Second Tip: Avoid low lying areas.
Installing you fish pond in an area where runoff water from your lawn flows is one big no-no. This runoff water will only accumulate in your fish pond, causing it to overflow and become dirty as well. This is one of the common mistakes of do-it-yourself pond projects. Maintaining a fish pond is difficult enough without excess dirty water coming from your lawn.
On the contrary, installing the pond in an area a little above the ground or in high parts of the lawn will prove to be easier to maintain.
Third Tip: Provide sufficient sunlight.
This means that placing the pond in shady areas will not enhance the growth of the aquatic life. On the other hand, placing it in an area where too much sun shines will just cause them to die. Place your pond where there is enough sunlight to seep through. Most aquatic plants need sunlight to grow, but some do not. Research on what plants suit your weather best.
Fourth Tip: Water your plants.
Adding a variety of aquatic plants may decrease the excess nutrients in the pond. They will also hamper algae growth that makes the pond murky and dirty.Consulting your local pond professional is also an option. Not only will they provide advice to make your project work, they may also make your work easier to do.
Nicholas Tan has been involved in Article Writing, providing Free Articles, Internet Marketing, SEO, Adwords, & Adsense for more than 5 years and designs and develops websites. Submit your free articles and get your articles noticed! Get your Free Articles here! Submit Articles! We provide free articles and information. Check us out at Free Articles!
Tan, Nicholas. (2008, December 1). Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation The Free Library. (2008). Retrieved August 18, 2009 from http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation-a01073918876
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation-a01073918876
Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation
Aesthetic Appeal
A backyard fish pond offers a aesthetic addition to your landscapes. Installing projects such as these will offer tranquility and relaxation to the whole family as well. However, building, constructing, and taking care of ponds are not as easy as you think. Much effort, planning, and money must go into these. It is important that you think things through before deciding on installing your very own back yard fish pond.
Building fish ponds are not as simple as installing it and letting it go afterwards. It is a consistent and constant endeavor, much like a hobby. Maintenance should be done periodically. Following some of these guidelines may aid you in installing a do it yourself backyard fish pond.
First Tip: Utilize a plastic fish pond liner for your pond.
In separating the fish pond from the surrounding soil, it is better to use a plastic liner (PVC liners work best). It prevents the escape of the aquatic plants, fishes, and other pond contents from the fish pond. In accordance to this, it also prevents the entry of nutrients from the soil or other non pond materials. This will make maintenance and cleaning easier since you will only have to deal with the mess and dirt of the pond itself and the fish that live there.
In building the pond of your preferred size, pond liners are the option to choose. Usually, they are utilized for large ponds that do not have pre-formed sizes available.
However, it is imperative that you choose the right size of the pond liner. Pond lines or liners are used for any size of pond. The sizes available for this kind of pond is 10'' x 15'' to 20'' x 25'' or larger. This can allow you to build a pond to your preferred size either by using them individually or by connecting together two or more pond liners with an adhesive especially made for this material.
A cement pond liner will also do, however, this option is more expensive and may require extra labor in constructing.
Second Tip: Avoid low lying areas.
Installing you fish pond in an area where runoff water from your lawn flows is one big no-no. This runoff water will only accumulate in your fish pond, causing it to overflow and become dirty as well. This is one of the common mistakes of do-it-yourself pond projects. Maintaining a fish pond is difficult enough without excess dirty water coming from your lawn.
On the contrary, installing the pond in an area a little above the ground or in high parts of the lawn will prove to be easier to maintain.
Third Tip: Provide sufficient sunlight.
This means that placing the pond in shady areas will not enhance the growth of the aquatic life. On the other hand, placing it in an area where too much sun shines will just cause them to die. Place your pond where there is enough sunlight to seep through. Most aquatic plants need sunlight to grow, but some do not. Research on what plants suit your weather best.
Fourth Tip: Water your plants.
Adding a variety of aquatic plants may decrease the excess nutrients in the pond. They will also hamper algae growth that makes the pond murky and dirty.Consulting your local pond professional is also an option. Not only will they provide advice to make your project work, they may also make your work easier to do.
Nicholas Tan has been involved in Article Writing, providing Free Articles, Internet Marketing, SEO, Adwords, & Adsense for more than 5 years and designs and develops websites. Submit your free articles and get your articles noticed! Get your Free Articles here! Submit Articles! We provide free articles and information. Check us out at Free Articles!
Tan, Nicholas. (2008, December 1). Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation The Free Library. (2008). Retrieved August 18, 2009 from http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation-a01073918876
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation-a01073918876
Fish Pond Backyard Pond Installation
How To Build A Backyard Pond
05.08.2009 Author: myarticlenetwork Posted in Landscaping
The peace and serenity of a garden pond will have been enjoyed by many people at different times. The addition of a pond can create a landscape that is both relaxing and calming. A backyard pond creates its own microclimate within your garden and gives pleasure to your friends and family. However, did you know that a garden pond can also be beneficial to local wildlife?
Depending on the area where you live many wildlife species may enjoy the benefits of your pond. Butterflies and birds, frogs and fish, snails, turtles and insects will all benefit from having access to a pond. The wildlife that is attracted to your pond will add to the pleasure that it brings to you and your family.
Humans Love Ponds Too
When you widen the term “local wildlife” to include your friends and family, you’ll see that there are many benefits to making a pond in your garden. Scientific studies have shown that there are benefits to one’s physical wellbeing by practicint relaxation techniques and practicing relaxation techniques, and spending time by a garden pond and listening to the trickle of water is certainly a relaxing experience. If you feel yourself becoming stressed, walking around your garden pond and listening to the trickle of water may be just the thing you need to turn your bad day into a good one.
A backyard pond can enrich your life. They can be mean many things to different members of the family: a way of exploring nature, a quiet area for reflection and relaxation, a place to educate children about their environment or simply a unique landscaping feature.
Pond Pets
Backyard ponds can even provide an environment for special pets. Koi make popular fish pets that are at home in a garden pond. Koi are a part of the carp family and can grow to 3 feet. They have been known to live from 30 to 50 years, so keeping koi is not exactly a short-term or casual hobby.
However, if you make a commitment to care for koi which are long-living fish, they will reward you by adding to the tranquility of your pond. Watching these graceful fish swim and interact with each other is a peaceful experience.
Getting Started With Garden Pond Design
Due to the popularity of ponds, you will find pond kits in most nurseries or garden centers that will include easy instructions on how to build a garden pond. Would prefer to have a professional handle the installation? Many landscaping firms will be able to construct a garden pond for you and by grabbing your copy of “How To Build A Pond” you’ll be better equipped to discuss your requirements and have an understanding of garden pond design.
Source URL: http://submitfreearticles.com/how-to-build-a-backyard-pond/
The peace and serenity of a garden pond will have been enjoyed by many people at different times. The addition of a pond can create a landscape that is both relaxing and calming. A backyard pond creates its own microclimate within your garden and gives pleasure to your friends and family. However, did you know that a garden pond can also be beneficial to local wildlife?
Depending on the area where you live many wildlife species may enjoy the benefits of your pond. Butterflies and birds, frogs and fish, snails, turtles and insects will all benefit from having access to a pond. The wildlife that is attracted to your pond will add to the pleasure that it brings to you and your family.
Humans Love Ponds Too
When you widen the term “local wildlife” to include your friends and family, you’ll see that there are many benefits to making a pond in your garden. Scientific studies have shown that there are benefits to one’s physical wellbeing by practicint relaxation techniques and practicing relaxation techniques, and spending time by a garden pond and listening to the trickle of water is certainly a relaxing experience. If you feel yourself becoming stressed, walking around your garden pond and listening to the trickle of water may be just the thing you need to turn your bad day into a good one.
A backyard pond can enrich your life. They can be mean many things to different members of the family: a way of exploring nature, a quiet area for reflection and relaxation, a place to educate children about their environment or simply a unique landscaping feature.
Pond Pets
Backyard ponds can even provide an environment for special pets. Koi make popular fish pets that are at home in a garden pond. Koi are a part of the carp family and can grow to 3 feet. They have been known to live from 30 to 50 years, so keeping koi is not exactly a short-term or casual hobby.
However, if you make a commitment to care for koi which are long-living fish, they will reward you by adding to the tranquility of your pond. Watching these graceful fish swim and interact with each other is a peaceful experience.
Getting Started With Garden Pond Design
Due to the popularity of ponds, you will find pond kits in most nurseries or garden centers that will include easy instructions on how to build a garden pond. Would prefer to have a professional handle the installation? Many landscaping firms will be able to construct a garden pond for you and by grabbing your copy of “How To Build A Pond” you’ll be better equipped to discuss your requirements and have an understanding of garden pond design.
Source URL: http://submitfreearticles.com/how-to-build-a-backyard-pond/
Monday 17 August 2009
Two Articles on the Borneo Black Leaf Turtle (Siebenrockiella crassicollis)
AKA Smiling Terrapin, Black Terrapin, Black Mud Turtle, or Malaysian Black Mud Turtle
By Mary Hopson at the Turtle Puddle
Although abundant throughout much of the Southeast Asian rainforest, this shy species is seldom seen in the wild. It lives in Thailand, Sumatra, Borneo, Java and peninsular Malaysia. It is almost all black, with several white markings on its head. The eyes are outlined in white. (Adult males lose the white markings.) The feet are fully webbed. The carapace has a rear serrations, a center keel and sometimes 2 lateral keels. It is a small turtle that rarely reaches 8".
The black mud turtle lives in soft-bottomed, heavily vegetated, shallow bodies of warm water. It tends to stay in the shallow water, nestled down in the mud, much of the time. But it will swim about in deeper, still water, and also come out on land to bask occasionally.
In the wild, the black mud turtle is highly carnivorous. It has a broad head and strong jaws for crunching mollusks and carrion bones. Worms, bugs, snails, shrimp, small frogs, etc. would all have a place in the natural diet. It might also eat some fruits that fall into the water. Prepared floating turtle foods (e.g. ReptoMin, Reptile T.E.N. or Turtle Brittle) could be used as part of a captive diet if supplemented with worms, snails and other live foods. They also eat some aquatic plants and other plant matter. Small juveniles will eat bloodworms and crushed ReptoMin.
Crassicollis can swallow on land but generally prefer to eat in, or near, the water.
A 20 gallon long aquarium is the minimum size for one turtle. Keep the water heated to 75 - 82 degrees F (24-28C.)The water does not need to be deep, but there should be hiding places to help this shy animal feel safe. Provide a basking light and dry area in the vivarium, although this turtle seldom basks. An additional reptile light may be physically and psychologically beneficial. During the day, the basking light should heat the air so that one area is about 85 degrees F (29C.) Keep the aquarium at least partially covered to maintain high humidity in the air. The aquarium should be well filtered. Feeding the turtle in a separate container will help keep the aquarium water cleaner. Since this turtle seldom basks, it is especially important to keep the water very clean, to prevent skin and shell infections.
Imported S. crassicollis will probably have multiple health problems, as is the case with most importated Asian turtles. They should be seen by a reptile veterinarian as soon as possible and checked for parasites and infections. This species is being captive bred. A captive bred turtle, although higher priced, is likely to be healthy, saving you a considerable sum in veterinary costs.
S. crassicollis is a tropical rainforest animal. It will enjoy a warm aquarium, stocked with aquatic plants (which juveniles are unlikely to eat, but adults will), caves and other good hiding places. Small feeder fish and snails could be kept available in the aquarium. The turtle will spend most of the time on shallow water shelves, if they are provided, and hiding in the plants. But it will swim in deeper water and, more rarely, come out of the water to bask. The water must be heated and well filtered. They are inclined to be active and inquisitive, exploring every item in the habitat, and crawling around on the basking platform even though they seldom pause to bask.
Sources:
Cox, van Dijk, Nabhitabhata & Thirakhupt. 1998. A Photographic Guide to Snakes and Other Reptiles of Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. Ralph Curtis Pub. Inc., Sanibel Island, FL.
Ernst, C. H. and Barbour, R. W. 1989. Turtles of the World. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, D.C.
Highfield, A. C. 1996. Practical Encyclopedia of Keeping and Breeding Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles. Carapace Press, London, England.
Lim Boo Liat & Das, Indraneil. 1999. Turtles of Borneo and Peninsular Malaysia. Natural History Publications (Borneo)
Pritchard, P. C. H. 1979. Encyclopedia of Turtles. TFH Publications, Neptune, New Jersey.
© Mary Hopson, Anchorage, AK
This information sheet may be freely copied and distributed.
Thank you Mary!
[http://www.turtlepuddle.org/exotics/crassicollis.html]
Borneo Black Marsh or Black Leaf Turtle (Siebenrockiella crassicollis)
By the Asian Turtle Conservation Network [ATCNetwork@fpt.vn]
Common name Black Marsh Turtle
Described by Gray, 1831
Conservation status vulnerable
Cites Appendix II
Range
Thailand (lowlands of central and peninsular regions), Laos, Southern Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia (Java, Kalimantan, Sumatra), Malaysia, (peninsular and Sarawak), Southern Myanmar and Singapore.
Habitat
Aquatic, slow moving or still bodies of freshwater at low elevations, such as ponds, canals, ditches and swamps (Stuart et al, 2001)
Key Threats
Hunting and trade
Distinguishing features
Head dark with a large white or pale yellow spot behind each eye, broad head with jaws curved into a smile. Carapace completely black. Plastron brown with black radiating blotches or completely black.
Size
Carapace to 20cm (8ins)
Clutch size
3 – 4 eggs (CNMA, 2003)
Nesting season
April – July (CNMA, 2003)
Diet
Omnivorous, aquatic (Stuart et al, 2001)
By Mary Hopson at the Turtle Puddle
Although abundant throughout much of the Southeast Asian rainforest, this shy species is seldom seen in the wild. It lives in Thailand, Sumatra, Borneo, Java and peninsular Malaysia. It is almost all black, with several white markings on its head. The eyes are outlined in white. (Adult males lose the white markings.) The feet are fully webbed. The carapace has a rear serrations, a center keel and sometimes 2 lateral keels. It is a small turtle that rarely reaches 8".
The black mud turtle lives in soft-bottomed, heavily vegetated, shallow bodies of warm water. It tends to stay in the shallow water, nestled down in the mud, much of the time. But it will swim about in deeper, still water, and also come out on land to bask occasionally.
In the wild, the black mud turtle is highly carnivorous. It has a broad head and strong jaws for crunching mollusks and carrion bones. Worms, bugs, snails, shrimp, small frogs, etc. would all have a place in the natural diet. It might also eat some fruits that fall into the water. Prepared floating turtle foods (e.g. ReptoMin, Reptile T.E.N. or Turtle Brittle) could be used as part of a captive diet if supplemented with worms, snails and other live foods. They also eat some aquatic plants and other plant matter. Small juveniles will eat bloodworms and crushed ReptoMin.
Crassicollis can swallow on land but generally prefer to eat in, or near, the water.
A 20 gallon long aquarium is the minimum size for one turtle. Keep the water heated to 75 - 82 degrees F (24-28C.)The water does not need to be deep, but there should be hiding places to help this shy animal feel safe. Provide a basking light and dry area in the vivarium, although this turtle seldom basks. An additional reptile light may be physically and psychologically beneficial. During the day, the basking light should heat the air so that one area is about 85 degrees F (29C.) Keep the aquarium at least partially covered to maintain high humidity in the air. The aquarium should be well filtered. Feeding the turtle in a separate container will help keep the aquarium water cleaner. Since this turtle seldom basks, it is especially important to keep the water very clean, to prevent skin and shell infections.
Imported S. crassicollis will probably have multiple health problems, as is the case with most importated Asian turtles. They should be seen by a reptile veterinarian as soon as possible and checked for parasites and infections. This species is being captive bred. A captive bred turtle, although higher priced, is likely to be healthy, saving you a considerable sum in veterinary costs.
S. crassicollis is a tropical rainforest animal. It will enjoy a warm aquarium, stocked with aquatic plants (which juveniles are unlikely to eat, but adults will), caves and other good hiding places. Small feeder fish and snails could be kept available in the aquarium. The turtle will spend most of the time on shallow water shelves, if they are provided, and hiding in the plants. But it will swim in deeper water and, more rarely, come out of the water to bask. The water must be heated and well filtered. They are inclined to be active and inquisitive, exploring every item in the habitat, and crawling around on the basking platform even though they seldom pause to bask.
Sources:
Cox, van Dijk, Nabhitabhata & Thirakhupt. 1998. A Photographic Guide to Snakes and Other Reptiles of Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. Ralph Curtis Pub. Inc., Sanibel Island, FL.
Ernst, C. H. and Barbour, R. W. 1989. Turtles of the World. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, D.C.
Highfield, A. C. 1996. Practical Encyclopedia of Keeping and Breeding Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles. Carapace Press, London, England.
Lim Boo Liat & Das, Indraneil. 1999. Turtles of Borneo and Peninsular Malaysia. Natural History Publications (Borneo)
Pritchard, P. C. H. 1979. Encyclopedia of Turtles. TFH Publications, Neptune, New Jersey.
© Mary Hopson, Anchorage, AK
This information sheet may be freely copied and distributed.
Thank you Mary!
[http://www.turtlepuddle.org/exotics/crassicollis.html]
Borneo Black Marsh or Black Leaf Turtle (Siebenrockiella crassicollis)
By the Asian Turtle Conservation Network [ATCNetwork@fpt.vn]
Common name Black Marsh Turtle
Described by Gray, 1831
Conservation status vulnerable
Cites Appendix II
Range
Thailand (lowlands of central and peninsular regions), Laos, Southern Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia (Java, Kalimantan, Sumatra), Malaysia, (peninsular and Sarawak), Southern Myanmar and Singapore.
Habitat
Aquatic, slow moving or still bodies of freshwater at low elevations, such as ponds, canals, ditches and swamps (Stuart et al, 2001)
Key Threats
Hunting and trade
Distinguishing features
Head dark with a large white or pale yellow spot behind each eye, broad head with jaws curved into a smile. Carapace completely black. Plastron brown with black radiating blotches or completely black.
Size
Carapace to 20cm (8ins)
Clutch size
3 – 4 eggs (CNMA, 2003)
Nesting season
April – July (CNMA, 2003)
Diet
Omnivorous, aquatic (Stuart et al, 2001)
Care Sheet for the Malayan box turtle (Cuora amboinensis)
By Darrell Senneke and Chris Tabaka DVM, of the World Chelonian Trust
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential.
The Malayan Box turtle (Cuora amboinensis), commonly referred to as the “Ambo”, is at this time (Sept., 2002) the most common hard-shelled chelonian species found in the food/medicinal markets of Southern China. It was only a few years ago that this distinction applied to the Reeve’s turtle (Chinemys reevesii) but as over-collection took its toll on that species, this one took its’ place. The overwhelming numbers of Ambos in the food/medicinal markets tends to reflect their availability for captive management as only a few animals out of the tens of thousands destined for that fate are diverted to the much smaller foreign and domestic pet trade. In this case, due to the scale of the trade in the species, even that miniscule percentage is reflected by the common appearance of this species in pet stores. A typical adult is usually about 20 cm (8 inches) in length but there are exceptionally large specimens that can reach 30 cm (12 inches). If at all possible, a captive born specimen should be sought out rather than an animal from the wild as the specimens originating in the food markets are without exception very heavily stressed, parisitized, dehydrated, and in need of immediate medical care by a veterinarian familiar with Asian market chelonia. After adding in the medical bills to the initial cost of the animal, a captive born specimen will be much less expensive. Unfortunately at this time, very few captive bred Cuora amboinensis are being reproduced.
There are four subspecies of Cuora amboinensis but the basic care for each of these is identical. It is the long running curse of the Malayan Box turtle that the term “Box” is a part of its common name. This distinction alone has probably caused more stress on freshly imported and thus dehydrated turtles of this species than any other. Ambos have a hinge; hence it is called a “box” turtle much like our own Terrapene species (as well as many of the other Southern Asia species that also possess hinges). Because of this term, many keepers set these up as terrestrial animals. This is a major mistake, particularly with dehydrated and parasitized fresh imports. Cuora amboinensis is a HIGHLY aquatic species and should be set up with the same type of accommodations one provides other aquatic species. If this species must be thought of and compared to another hinged species, the best example is the Mud turtles (Kinosternon) which also possess a hinge and are much more aquatic than Terrapene, the American box turtle.
Housing Malayan Box Turtles Indoors
Ambos are most accurately termed a “semi-aquatic” species. In the wild, they tend to spend most of their time in the water but are known to move about and eat on land as well. Hatchlings are almost totally aquatic, leaving the water primarily to bask. As they age, they become slightly more terrestrial but are never found far from (and seldom out of) the water. In captivity, they are generally treated as an aquatic species and adapt well to large aquarium management. The most useful form of indoor accommodation for Malayan box turtles is a very large aquarium or a small child’s swimming pool. While they are completely at home in water, they are fairly poor swimmers as compared to a typical aquatic turtle species. I would suggest a water depth of 2 inches (5 cm) or less for a hatchling to allow them to “stand” on the bottom and reach the surface to breath without difficulty. This can be increased as the animal grows but one should always provide resting areas/shallows where the water should be no deeper than the length of the shell. If this type of arrangement is used an area should be built up in one end of the habitat to provide a dry basking area.
What we use for most other hatchling aquatic species is an undecorated “slant tank”. A sweaterbox measuring about 60 cm by 40 cm (24 inches by 16 inches) is propped up on one end to provide a slanted bottom, resulting in a water depth at the lowest end of 5 cm (2 inches) and a dry area at the shallow end. As this is undecorated it is easily cleaned on a frequent basis. A PVC valve can be easily installed in one end to allow for easier draining and cleaning. The addition of live or plastic water plants add to the sense of security for the animals and in the case of live plants may provide an additional food source. As the animal grows the size of this habitat and depth of water should be increased.
At 6 cm (2.5 inches) or so, Malayan Box turtles can be moved out of this arrangement and into a proper aquarium. A reasonable size aquarium for an Ambo of this size is a 20 gallon: 75 cm by 30 cm (30 inches by 12 inches). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased. A water depth of 20 cm up to 25 cm (8 inches to 10 inches) would be fine for turtles between 6 cm (2.5 inches) and the typical adult size of 20 cm (8 inches)
Water quality is very important. Because of the shallowness of the water in a “slant tank” filtration may not be practical. In this event frequent water changes are a must. For larger or adult Cuora amboinensis, we advise canister filters as they are easily cleaned and provide for excellent water quality. Many problems with aquatic turtles can be avoided if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. While healthy Ambos are extremely hardy and tolerant of adverse conditions, they should still be provided with the best conditions possible. There are many chronically ill animals that are not properly “cleaned up” and which can regress/ have repeated problems due to even temporary sub-standard conditions.
As this species originates from the tropics, water temperature should be maintained in the 75 – 80 degree F range (25 – 28 C). Malayan Box turtles eagerly bask – often being seen on logs or rocks in nature. To provide a basking site in an artificial setup, a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be positioned over the dry end of the environment. This should be positioned at a height to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F or so (32 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 synthesis (needed in calcium metabolism). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills all requirements.
The authors prefer tanks without substrate in the aquatic area as they are more easily maintained. In the land area of large habitats, cypress mulch as a substrate works well. They like to burrow and need the humidity for their shells. If a substrate is used, care should be taken to avoid any type of gravel that can easily be ingested by the turtles, as they are prone to this type of behavior, especially in the case of white or pea gravel.
Diet
Malayan Box turtle hatchlings take rapidly to many offered foods. Be careful not to overfeed them or growth deformities will result. We recommend only feeding lightly once every day or a little more every other day for rapidly growing hatchlings. Hatchling ambos are very carnivorous and will eagerly consume insects, worms, and fish but will also consume some greens. Earthworms are a particular favorite. If feeding fish - live fish is best; plus the pursuit of live fish provides exercise and mental stimulation. Any aquatic vegetation such as duckweed will also be appreciated not only for it’s cover but also for snacking. As they age, they tend to eat a higher percentage of vegetation. Many of the commercially prepared turtle diets as well as Koi or Catfish foods which have a bit higher protein than some of the others seem to work well with this species and can be considered appropriate Malayan Box turtle food along with varied supplementation (greens, fruits, insects).
Additional calcium supplementation is essential if not feeding a whole prey diet. Powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. If feeding LIVE fish and/or whole prey like adult rodents, calcium and vitamins will be largely taken care of already. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended. Addition of multivitamins if a commercially prepared turtle diet is NOT used is essential for a number of processes including proper fat metabolism. The freezing process for fish destroys the vitamin E and thiamin, which is an important component for maintaining a healthy Ambo. If feeding frozen fish the keeper will need to add a vitamin supplement to provide these.
Outdoor Housing
Once your turtle is over 7.5 cm (3 inches) in size, predator-proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should be seriously considered as an option. A child’s wading pool sunk into the ground in a secure enclosure makes for a serviceable outdoor habitat. Larger ponds with advanced filtration can be used to provide a spectacular outdoor home for your Cuora amboinensis. In a pond environment, they do well even with deep swim areas up to 50 cm (18 inches) deep. They should be provided rocks along the side of their “pool” at varying heights to allow them to easily clamber in and out of the water. Outdoor ponds should be sunk into the ground to avoid wide temperature fluctuations. An enclosure of about 50% water and 50% land suits this species well. They eat best in the water with commercial pellets or other foods presented there. In an outdoor habitat, provision should be made for basking as well as a fairly large egg laying area as this species, when in prime condition, lays multiple clutches annually.
Medical
The problems most commonly associated with wild caught / imported Cuora amboinensis are:
· Diarrhea caused by Amoebiasis, particularly Entamoeba invadens
· Septicemia from trauma as well as secondary problems from Entamoeba
· Shell rot (SCUD)
· Starvation and dehydration in fresh wild caught animals
Cuora amboinensis do NOT hibernate; in non-tropical areas provision must be made to provide them with a warm indoor habitation during periods cool or cold weather.
Another notable problem in this species can be found in adult breeding groups of amboinensis. Adult males are almost invariably aggressive in terms of their breeding tendencies. They will literally tear at the female's neck during courtship / breeding and if left unchecked and unseparated, can cause some serious cervical skin and muscle lesions. Separation of the sexes, numerous hiding places, and spacious accommodations are important for successful breeding.
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
World Chelonian Trust
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential.
The Malayan Box turtle (Cuora amboinensis), commonly referred to as the “Ambo”, is at this time (Sept., 2002) the most common hard-shelled chelonian species found in the food/medicinal markets of Southern China. It was only a few years ago that this distinction applied to the Reeve’s turtle (Chinemys reevesii) but as over-collection took its toll on that species, this one took its’ place. The overwhelming numbers of Ambos in the food/medicinal markets tends to reflect their availability for captive management as only a few animals out of the tens of thousands destined for that fate are diverted to the much smaller foreign and domestic pet trade. In this case, due to the scale of the trade in the species, even that miniscule percentage is reflected by the common appearance of this species in pet stores. A typical adult is usually about 20 cm (8 inches) in length but there are exceptionally large specimens that can reach 30 cm (12 inches). If at all possible, a captive born specimen should be sought out rather than an animal from the wild as the specimens originating in the food markets are without exception very heavily stressed, parisitized, dehydrated, and in need of immediate medical care by a veterinarian familiar with Asian market chelonia. After adding in the medical bills to the initial cost of the animal, a captive born specimen will be much less expensive. Unfortunately at this time, very few captive bred Cuora amboinensis are being reproduced.
There are four subspecies of Cuora amboinensis but the basic care for each of these is identical. It is the long running curse of the Malayan Box turtle that the term “Box” is a part of its common name. This distinction alone has probably caused more stress on freshly imported and thus dehydrated turtles of this species than any other. Ambos have a hinge; hence it is called a “box” turtle much like our own Terrapene species (as well as many of the other Southern Asia species that also possess hinges). Because of this term, many keepers set these up as terrestrial animals. This is a major mistake, particularly with dehydrated and parasitized fresh imports. Cuora amboinensis is a HIGHLY aquatic species and should be set up with the same type of accommodations one provides other aquatic species. If this species must be thought of and compared to another hinged species, the best example is the Mud turtles (Kinosternon) which also possess a hinge and are much more aquatic than Terrapene, the American box turtle.
Housing Malayan Box Turtles Indoors
Ambos are most accurately termed a “semi-aquatic” species. In the wild, they tend to spend most of their time in the water but are known to move about and eat on land as well. Hatchlings are almost totally aquatic, leaving the water primarily to bask. As they age, they become slightly more terrestrial but are never found far from (and seldom out of) the water. In captivity, they are generally treated as an aquatic species and adapt well to large aquarium management. The most useful form of indoor accommodation for Malayan box turtles is a very large aquarium or a small child’s swimming pool. While they are completely at home in water, they are fairly poor swimmers as compared to a typical aquatic turtle species. I would suggest a water depth of 2 inches (5 cm) or less for a hatchling to allow them to “stand” on the bottom and reach the surface to breath without difficulty. This can be increased as the animal grows but one should always provide resting areas/shallows where the water should be no deeper than the length of the shell. If this type of arrangement is used an area should be built up in one end of the habitat to provide a dry basking area.
What we use for most other hatchling aquatic species is an undecorated “slant tank”. A sweaterbox measuring about 60 cm by 40 cm (24 inches by 16 inches) is propped up on one end to provide a slanted bottom, resulting in a water depth at the lowest end of 5 cm (2 inches) and a dry area at the shallow end. As this is undecorated it is easily cleaned on a frequent basis. A PVC valve can be easily installed in one end to allow for easier draining and cleaning. The addition of live or plastic water plants add to the sense of security for the animals and in the case of live plants may provide an additional food source. As the animal grows the size of this habitat and depth of water should be increased.
At 6 cm (2.5 inches) or so, Malayan Box turtles can be moved out of this arrangement and into a proper aquarium. A reasonable size aquarium for an Ambo of this size is a 20 gallon: 75 cm by 30 cm (30 inches by 12 inches). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased. A water depth of 20 cm up to 25 cm (8 inches to 10 inches) would be fine for turtles between 6 cm (2.5 inches) and the typical adult size of 20 cm (8 inches)
Water quality is very important. Because of the shallowness of the water in a “slant tank” filtration may not be practical. In this event frequent water changes are a must. For larger or adult Cuora amboinensis, we advise canister filters as they are easily cleaned and provide for excellent water quality. Many problems with aquatic turtles can be avoided if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. While healthy Ambos are extremely hardy and tolerant of adverse conditions, they should still be provided with the best conditions possible. There are many chronically ill animals that are not properly “cleaned up” and which can regress/ have repeated problems due to even temporary sub-standard conditions.
As this species originates from the tropics, water temperature should be maintained in the 75 – 80 degree F range (25 – 28 C). Malayan Box turtles eagerly bask – often being seen on logs or rocks in nature. To provide a basking site in an artificial setup, a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be positioned over the dry end of the environment. This should be positioned at a height to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F or so (32 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 synthesis (needed in calcium metabolism). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills all requirements.
The authors prefer tanks without substrate in the aquatic area as they are more easily maintained. In the land area of large habitats, cypress mulch as a substrate works well. They like to burrow and need the humidity for their shells. If a substrate is used, care should be taken to avoid any type of gravel that can easily be ingested by the turtles, as they are prone to this type of behavior, especially in the case of white or pea gravel.
Diet
Malayan Box turtle hatchlings take rapidly to many offered foods. Be careful not to overfeed them or growth deformities will result. We recommend only feeding lightly once every day or a little more every other day for rapidly growing hatchlings. Hatchling ambos are very carnivorous and will eagerly consume insects, worms, and fish but will also consume some greens. Earthworms are a particular favorite. If feeding fish - live fish is best; plus the pursuit of live fish provides exercise and mental stimulation. Any aquatic vegetation such as duckweed will also be appreciated not only for it’s cover but also for snacking. As they age, they tend to eat a higher percentage of vegetation. Many of the commercially prepared turtle diets as well as Koi or Catfish foods which have a bit higher protein than some of the others seem to work well with this species and can be considered appropriate Malayan Box turtle food along with varied supplementation (greens, fruits, insects).
Additional calcium supplementation is essential if not feeding a whole prey diet. Powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. If feeding LIVE fish and/or whole prey like adult rodents, calcium and vitamins will be largely taken care of already. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended. Addition of multivitamins if a commercially prepared turtle diet is NOT used is essential for a number of processes including proper fat metabolism. The freezing process for fish destroys the vitamin E and thiamin, which is an important component for maintaining a healthy Ambo. If feeding frozen fish the keeper will need to add a vitamin supplement to provide these.
Outdoor Housing
Once your turtle is over 7.5 cm (3 inches) in size, predator-proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should be seriously considered as an option. A child’s wading pool sunk into the ground in a secure enclosure makes for a serviceable outdoor habitat. Larger ponds with advanced filtration can be used to provide a spectacular outdoor home for your Cuora amboinensis. In a pond environment, they do well even with deep swim areas up to 50 cm (18 inches) deep. They should be provided rocks along the side of their “pool” at varying heights to allow them to easily clamber in and out of the water. Outdoor ponds should be sunk into the ground to avoid wide temperature fluctuations. An enclosure of about 50% water and 50% land suits this species well. They eat best in the water with commercial pellets or other foods presented there. In an outdoor habitat, provision should be made for basking as well as a fairly large egg laying area as this species, when in prime condition, lays multiple clutches annually.
Medical
The problems most commonly associated with wild caught / imported Cuora amboinensis are:
· Diarrhea caused by Amoebiasis, particularly Entamoeba invadens
· Septicemia from trauma as well as secondary problems from Entamoeba
· Shell rot (SCUD)
· Starvation and dehydration in fresh wild caught animals
Cuora amboinensis do NOT hibernate; in non-tropical areas provision must be made to provide them with a warm indoor habitation during periods cool or cold weather.
Another notable problem in this species can be found in adult breeding groups of amboinensis. Adult males are almost invariably aggressive in terms of their breeding tendencies. They will literally tear at the female's neck during courtship / breeding and if left unchecked and unseparated, can cause some serious cervical skin and muscle lesions. Separation of the sexes, numerous hiding places, and spacious accommodations are important for successful breeding.
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
World Chelonian Trust
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
Sunday 16 August 2009
Care Sheet for Forsten's Tortoise (Indotestudo forstenii)
By Darrell Senneke and Chris Tabaka DVM of the World Chelonian Trust
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
Forsten’s or the Sulawesi Tortoise belongs to the Genus Indotestudo. Included in this group are both the Elongated tortoise, Indotestudo elongata and the Travancore tortoise, Indotestudo travancorica.
Indotestudo travancorica had been considered a synonym of I. forstenii previously but is now treated as a full species1. This leads to much confusion in the literature, as one of the common names attributed to I. forstenii is the Travancore tortoise. It is the opinion of the authors as well as many taxonomists that this common name should be struck from use in connection with I. forstenii.
Other common names in use are:
Sulawesi Tortoise
Forsten's Tortoise
Celebes Tortoise
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance / reproduction plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
Indotestudo forstenii is a medium sized tortoise. Typically, they are about 25 cm (10 inches) long and 2.5. kg (5 pounds) as an adult although there are larger specimens. Females tend to be wider and more rounded than males. In addition, males have a tail that is noticeably larger as well as longer than that of the female. The tip of the tail is tipped with a small keratinous hook. Males also have a slightly concave plastron while the plastron of the females are completely flat.
AppearanceThe ground color of the shell is caramel colored to dark yellowish brown, with blotches of black on each scute - this can be variable with some tortoises appearing totally caramel colored and others nearly completely black.
Forsten’s tortoise possesses a smooth shell, which appears to be remarkably resistant to the deformities often encountered in captive tortoises due to poor (high protein) diets. There has been little research on Indotestudo forstenii diets in the wild but the supposition is that their resistance to pyramiding is the result of a high humidity, moderate protein dietary adaptation.
Large scales cover the anterior parts of the front legs, while the hind legs lack this protection. The unarmored skin of this species is gray to yellow. The head is yellow /tan except in breeding season where both sexes take on a pinkish coloration around the nares and eyes.
Distribution
This species has a very limited range being found only on what was referred to as the the Celebes islands: Sulawesi and Halmahera. Sulawesi, originally named Celebes by the first Spanish and Portuguese explorers and referred to by this name by the great 17th century naturalists is historically known as an island of spices and pirates. While its very limited range appears to have protected this species to this point from the Asian food markets, this restricted range also makes it more vulnerable to habitat loss and the pet trade. The species has been placed on CITES Appendix II, which regulates legal international trade.
Natural history
Indotestudo forstenii is primarily a damp forest species though it can be found in dry areas as well. It is a crepuscular tortoise, becoming active in the twilight hours before dawn or just after sunset. Its large eyes are well adapted to low light levels. Indotestudo forstenii has an omnivorous diet in the wild consisting of fruits, leafy greens, worms, slugs and carrion if available.
Reproduction
Male I. forstenii engage in very aggressive courtship behavior which can result in injury to the female if a large enough habitat is not provided. Male aggression towards other males can also be rather damaging and it is suggested that only one male be housed per enclosure. Some large females can also be highly aggressive thus "cowing" smaller males. In courtship, the male engages in ramming behavior as well as vigorous biting about the head, neck and front legs of the female. The male loudly vocalizes during mating, emitting a harsh, raspy sound while exhaling.
A female Forsten’s tortoise preparing to nest becomes restless, often attempting to escape the enclosure. While constantly striding about the habitat, she will stop and sniff the earth from time to time as she selects a spot. Generally, the spot chosen is damp and free of vegetation. Once she has found a suitable spot, she digs a flask shaped nest 15 - 20 centimeters deep with her back legs. If the soil is too hard and dry, she will wet the spot by emptying her bladder. She then proceeds to lay a clutch of 1-4 eggs in the excavated nest, replaces the soil with her back legs and flattens the spot with her plastron. One of the author's experiences is that this species is able to hide its ova EXTREMELY well. Laying occurs in the early spring in captivity. As of the date of this article, there has been minimal captive breeding of this species in the United States.
Care in captivity
The most common form of indoor accommodation for small or medium sized Forsten’s Tortoises consists of a “turtle table’ To all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a hatchling is 60 cm by 60 cm (2 feet by 2 feet). As the animal grows, the size of this habitat should be increased. For an adult Forsten’s tortoise the indoor accommodation should be at least 120 cm by 120 cm (4 feet by 4 feet). Into the bottom of this “turtle table” holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food, water and eventually nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access.
The water area of the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes and it must also be shallow enough to protect from drowning. Photographic developing trays sunk into the surface of the habitat provide excellent water areas for adult Forsten’s tortoises. Cypress mulch is the indoor substrate of choice for this species due to its humidity retention characteristics, which in turn leads to good scute and skin health.
In one corner of the environment a 100W spot lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 32 Degrees C (90 degrees F) or so in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism) If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills all requirements. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool dim retreat which will be well utilized during the day.
Once nighttime temperatures stay above 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) the Forsten’s tortoises are best moved outdoors. They appear to be fairly cold tolerant and can be seen actively hunting on days when the temperature exceeds 20 degrees C (70degrees F). Forsten’s tortoises do not appreciate bright lighting and tend to hide at midday. It is suggested that one allow their pens to become overgrown, supplying them with the shady areas that they seem to require. They will also appreciate a shallow pond in their habitat, making certain to allow for ease of egress, as they frequently soak on a daily basis in warm weather. Overall, this species does best in naturally humid climates outdoors. If your area is not naturally humid, water timers and a misting/sprinkler system can be utilized to artificially create one. Some areas of the habitat should be heavily planted to allow the Forsten’s a cool dim retreat. Provision of a wet muddy area for wallowing will also be appreciated by your tortoise.
Diet
I. forstenii are omnivorous, consuming both animal and plant material in the wild. In captivity this may be duplicated by feeding a very minimal amount of low fat dog food or whole prey item twice a month. Meat should NOT be fed as a part of the daily diet. Occasional earthworms and other insects will be very much appreciated. They will also naturally forage for insects in their outdoor habitats. We have found that I. forstenii thrive on a diet supplemented with Mazuri Tortoise Diet. Wild caught animals will actively seek out yellow foods such as corn and squash which can be utilized to switch the animals over to the following diet. The diet offered should consist of:
Mazuri tortoise diet
Leafy greens (dandelions, clover, endive etc.)
Fruits
OCCASIONAL minimal meat based protein.
Diets rich in meats are invariably high in phosphates and low in calcium. This can cause serious problems for tortoises which need high levels of calcium for healthy bone and carapace development. Additional calcium supplementation is therefore highly recommended. For proper growth as well as egg production, powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods once a week to help meet these requirements. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed for it's calcium content as well as for proper beak growth, is also recommended. Usage of whole prey items as an OCCASIONAL protein source has the added benefit of providing bone for calcium as well as various vitamins and minerals in the gastrointestinal tract of the prey.
The substrate of choice is cypress mulch or something possessing the same humidity holding properties in order to keep their shells/skin from drying out in captive conditions. In outdoor pens with areas of high sand content, food should not be placed directly on sandy soil. Sand can build up in the tortoises GI tract leading to possible impaction and even death. A completely separate sand-free area in the habitat should be utilized to feed.
This species does not hibernate in nature. Facilities must be provided for the continued health and well being of the tortoise indoors in cooler (non tropical) climates. MedicalNewly imported Indotestudo forstenii invariably need medical care. This species is often exposed to a number of exotic (to it) pathogens in the shipping process (particularly during warehousing for export) and thus needs medical attention. It is often the case with this species that while they may look like they are doing well for several months, they will crash and often die from various brewing ailments if left untreated. This is a problem inherent in a number of Asian wild caught species unfortunately.
One extremely common problem that has been encountered in this species is erosive lesions in the roof of the mouth. Whenever an animal is purchased, a thorough oral examination should take place to check for said lesions. It is also wise to check for any foreign bodies as well as pneumonia/upper respiratory tract disease that often result from these lesions. While it has not yet been proven that these erosions are caused by a herpes virus, it is the most likely culprit. If an animal is purchased that has these lesions, be extremely careful about allowing the animal to live outside on grass as there have been reports of animals lost from foreign bodies lodging in these lesions and causing subsequent problems such as pneumonia. Frequent checks of the oral cavity to be sure the lesions are not spreading or impacted is recommended. Large amounts of fluids discharge and ulcerative lesions in the throat are typical.
Male Forsten's tortoises tend to be few and far between due to a higher morbidity and mortality rate than that found in the females. This is relatively common in many Asian turtles and tortoises.
Hexamita has also been encountered by one author in this species. It may be that herpes leads to a weakened immune system leading to an increased susceptibility to disease.
Last and far from least, this is one species that should be combined with another group only with EXTREME caution due to our current lack of medical ability to delineate which animals are carriers and which are clean. This makes it extremely important to reproduce this species and raise the offspring in relative isolation in order to establish clean groups, a goal that is currently being undertaken by the Turtle Survival Alliance (http://www.turtlesurvival.org/).
As dosage information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and potentially dangerous, please work closely with your veterinarian to care for your animals.
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/ /. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust
World Chelonian Trust
www.chelonia.org
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
Forsten’s or the Sulawesi Tortoise belongs to the Genus Indotestudo. Included in this group are both the Elongated tortoise, Indotestudo elongata and the Travancore tortoise, Indotestudo travancorica.
Indotestudo travancorica had been considered a synonym of I. forstenii previously but is now treated as a full species1. This leads to much confusion in the literature, as one of the common names attributed to I. forstenii is the Travancore tortoise. It is the opinion of the authors as well as many taxonomists that this common name should be struck from use in connection with I. forstenii.
Other common names in use are:
Sulawesi Tortoise
Forsten's Tortoise
Celebes Tortoise
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance / reproduction plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
Indotestudo forstenii is a medium sized tortoise. Typically, they are about 25 cm (10 inches) long and 2.5. kg (5 pounds) as an adult although there are larger specimens. Females tend to be wider and more rounded than males. In addition, males have a tail that is noticeably larger as well as longer than that of the female. The tip of the tail is tipped with a small keratinous hook. Males also have a slightly concave plastron while the plastron of the females are completely flat.
AppearanceThe ground color of the shell is caramel colored to dark yellowish brown, with blotches of black on each scute - this can be variable with some tortoises appearing totally caramel colored and others nearly completely black.
Forsten’s tortoise possesses a smooth shell, which appears to be remarkably resistant to the deformities often encountered in captive tortoises due to poor (high protein) diets. There has been little research on Indotestudo forstenii diets in the wild but the supposition is that their resistance to pyramiding is the result of a high humidity, moderate protein dietary adaptation.
Large scales cover the anterior parts of the front legs, while the hind legs lack this protection. The unarmored skin of this species is gray to yellow. The head is yellow /tan except in breeding season where both sexes take on a pinkish coloration around the nares and eyes.
Distribution
This species has a very limited range being found only on what was referred to as the the Celebes islands: Sulawesi and Halmahera. Sulawesi, originally named Celebes by the first Spanish and Portuguese explorers and referred to by this name by the great 17th century naturalists is historically known as an island of spices and pirates. While its very limited range appears to have protected this species to this point from the Asian food markets, this restricted range also makes it more vulnerable to habitat loss and the pet trade. The species has been placed on CITES Appendix II, which regulates legal international trade.
Natural history
Indotestudo forstenii is primarily a damp forest species though it can be found in dry areas as well. It is a crepuscular tortoise, becoming active in the twilight hours before dawn or just after sunset. Its large eyes are well adapted to low light levels. Indotestudo forstenii has an omnivorous diet in the wild consisting of fruits, leafy greens, worms, slugs and carrion if available.
Reproduction
Male I. forstenii engage in very aggressive courtship behavior which can result in injury to the female if a large enough habitat is not provided. Male aggression towards other males can also be rather damaging and it is suggested that only one male be housed per enclosure. Some large females can also be highly aggressive thus "cowing" smaller males. In courtship, the male engages in ramming behavior as well as vigorous biting about the head, neck and front legs of the female. The male loudly vocalizes during mating, emitting a harsh, raspy sound while exhaling.
A female Forsten’s tortoise preparing to nest becomes restless, often attempting to escape the enclosure. While constantly striding about the habitat, she will stop and sniff the earth from time to time as she selects a spot. Generally, the spot chosen is damp and free of vegetation. Once she has found a suitable spot, she digs a flask shaped nest 15 - 20 centimeters deep with her back legs. If the soil is too hard and dry, she will wet the spot by emptying her bladder. She then proceeds to lay a clutch of 1-4 eggs in the excavated nest, replaces the soil with her back legs and flattens the spot with her plastron. One of the author's experiences is that this species is able to hide its ova EXTREMELY well. Laying occurs in the early spring in captivity. As of the date of this article, there has been minimal captive breeding of this species in the United States.
Care in captivity
The most common form of indoor accommodation for small or medium sized Forsten’s Tortoises consists of a “turtle table’ To all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a hatchling is 60 cm by 60 cm (2 feet by 2 feet). As the animal grows, the size of this habitat should be increased. For an adult Forsten’s tortoise the indoor accommodation should be at least 120 cm by 120 cm (4 feet by 4 feet). Into the bottom of this “turtle table” holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food, water and eventually nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access.
The water area of the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes and it must also be shallow enough to protect from drowning. Photographic developing trays sunk into the surface of the habitat provide excellent water areas for adult Forsten’s tortoises. Cypress mulch is the indoor substrate of choice for this species due to its humidity retention characteristics, which in turn leads to good scute and skin health.
In one corner of the environment a 100W spot lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 32 Degrees C (90 degrees F) or so in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism) If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills all requirements. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool dim retreat which will be well utilized during the day.
Once nighttime temperatures stay above 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) the Forsten’s tortoises are best moved outdoors. They appear to be fairly cold tolerant and can be seen actively hunting on days when the temperature exceeds 20 degrees C (70degrees F). Forsten’s tortoises do not appreciate bright lighting and tend to hide at midday. It is suggested that one allow their pens to become overgrown, supplying them with the shady areas that they seem to require. They will also appreciate a shallow pond in their habitat, making certain to allow for ease of egress, as they frequently soak on a daily basis in warm weather. Overall, this species does best in naturally humid climates outdoors. If your area is not naturally humid, water timers and a misting/sprinkler system can be utilized to artificially create one. Some areas of the habitat should be heavily planted to allow the Forsten’s a cool dim retreat. Provision of a wet muddy area for wallowing will also be appreciated by your tortoise.
Diet
I. forstenii are omnivorous, consuming both animal and plant material in the wild. In captivity this may be duplicated by feeding a very minimal amount of low fat dog food or whole prey item twice a month. Meat should NOT be fed as a part of the daily diet. Occasional earthworms and other insects will be very much appreciated. They will also naturally forage for insects in their outdoor habitats. We have found that I. forstenii thrive on a diet supplemented with Mazuri Tortoise Diet. Wild caught animals will actively seek out yellow foods such as corn and squash which can be utilized to switch the animals over to the following diet. The diet offered should consist of:
Mazuri tortoise diet
Leafy greens (dandelions, clover, endive etc.)
Fruits
OCCASIONAL minimal meat based protein.
Diets rich in meats are invariably high in phosphates and low in calcium. This can cause serious problems for tortoises which need high levels of calcium for healthy bone and carapace development. Additional calcium supplementation is therefore highly recommended. For proper growth as well as egg production, powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods once a week to help meet these requirements. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed for it's calcium content as well as for proper beak growth, is also recommended. Usage of whole prey items as an OCCASIONAL protein source has the added benefit of providing bone for calcium as well as various vitamins and minerals in the gastrointestinal tract of the prey.
The substrate of choice is cypress mulch or something possessing the same humidity holding properties in order to keep their shells/skin from drying out in captive conditions. In outdoor pens with areas of high sand content, food should not be placed directly on sandy soil. Sand can build up in the tortoises GI tract leading to possible impaction and even death. A completely separate sand-free area in the habitat should be utilized to feed.
This species does not hibernate in nature. Facilities must be provided for the continued health and well being of the tortoise indoors in cooler (non tropical) climates. MedicalNewly imported Indotestudo forstenii invariably need medical care. This species is often exposed to a number of exotic (to it) pathogens in the shipping process (particularly during warehousing for export) and thus needs medical attention. It is often the case with this species that while they may look like they are doing well for several months, they will crash and often die from various brewing ailments if left untreated. This is a problem inherent in a number of Asian wild caught species unfortunately.
One extremely common problem that has been encountered in this species is erosive lesions in the roof of the mouth. Whenever an animal is purchased, a thorough oral examination should take place to check for said lesions. It is also wise to check for any foreign bodies as well as pneumonia/upper respiratory tract disease that often result from these lesions. While it has not yet been proven that these erosions are caused by a herpes virus, it is the most likely culprit. If an animal is purchased that has these lesions, be extremely careful about allowing the animal to live outside on grass as there have been reports of animals lost from foreign bodies lodging in these lesions and causing subsequent problems such as pneumonia. Frequent checks of the oral cavity to be sure the lesions are not spreading or impacted is recommended. Large amounts of fluids discharge and ulcerative lesions in the throat are typical.
Male Forsten's tortoises tend to be few and far between due to a higher morbidity and mortality rate than that found in the females. This is relatively common in many Asian turtles and tortoises.
Hexamita has also been encountered by one author in this species. It may be that herpes leads to a weakened immune system leading to an increased susceptibility to disease.
Last and far from least, this is one species that should be combined with another group only with EXTREME caution due to our current lack of medical ability to delineate which animals are carriers and which are clean. This makes it extremely important to reproduce this species and raise the offspring in relative isolation in order to establish clean groups, a goal that is currently being undertaken by the Turtle Survival Alliance (http://www.turtlesurvival.org/).
As dosage information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and potentially dangerous, please work closely with your veterinarian to care for your animals.
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/ /. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust
World Chelonian Trust
www.chelonia.org
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
Care Sheet for the Asian Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys Dentata)
By Chris Tabaka DVM and Darrell Senneke of the World Chelonian Trust
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance / reproduction plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
Presently the genus Cyclemys is split into 4 species. It is almost certain that this will be further split as further research is done on this wide-ranging genus. Much like the map turtles (Graptemys) of the American Midwest and South, there are distinct differences between populations found in different river drainages. Though Cyclemys species are often called Asian leaf turtles, this often leads to some confusion with other chelonians that have the word “leaf” in their common name such as the Black-breasted or Vietnamese leaf turtle (Geomyda spengleri) as well as the Vietnam leaf turtle (Annamemys annamensis).
At the present time this species is a frequent import in the pet trade. This may change though because of its presence in the Asian food markets. The availability of Leaf turtles as wild caught specimens is certain to decline in the coming years unless rapid changes are made in the culinary and traditional medicine practices of that part of the world. For more information on this please see the "Animal Markets of China" hosted by the World Chelonian Trust at http://www.chelonia.org/. Luckily at the present time Cyclemys dentata is being captive bred with some frequency and the other species are sure to follow as breeders focus more on this Genus.
Cyclemys have a rounded carapace (hence the Generic name which means “Circle turtle”) and grow to about 25 cm (10 inches) in length. The base color is usually a variation of brown with the plastron and sometimes the carapace showing radiating lines on each scute. Cyclemys possess a distinct vertebral keel and a serrated rear carapacial margin. This is much more pronounced in the young and may offer some protection against predators such as frogs or fish that may opportunistically attempt to swallow the spiky shelled hatchlings. Large adults develop a transverse plastral hinge, which, in the case of females, may allow for easier egg passage during ovipositioning.
Young Cyclemys are fairly aquatic and can be kept much like any other basking turtle. They do appear to become more terrestrial as they age with adults spending much of their time on land. In the wild, Cyclemys are found in or near ponds, small rivers, and slow moving streams. They are not strong swimmers preferring instead to walk on the bottom of a body of water rather than swimming freely. According to Das5 adults spend their nights on land and move to water during the day.
Thanks to the success that breeders are having with the species (at least Cyclemys dentata) it is now possible to purchase hatchlings from captive born stock. Such specimens are much more desirable as pets as they are much healthier and well acclimated to captivity.
Housing Leaf Turtles Indoors
The most useful form of indoor accommodation for hatchling Cyclemys consists of an aquarium. For hatchlings we suggest a water depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) with one end built up with rocks to provide a dry basking spot. A reasonable sized aquarium for a hatchling is a 20 gallon: 30 inches by 12 inches, (75 cm by 30 cm). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased.
Water quality is very important. Many problems with Leaf turtles can be averted if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. Hatchlings are sometimes difficult to provide good filtration for because of the depth of the water. For these a submersible foam filer or power filter and frequent water changes is the rule.
In one corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be positioned over the dry basking area to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a focal basking spot of 90 degrees F or so (32 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 synthesis (necessary for calcium metabolism). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills both heat and UV requirements. Live or plastic aquatic plants are suggested to provide a sense of security and hiding places.
For adults an environment that is at least 50% land is recommended. The water should be at a depth that the animal may easily reach the surface while standing on the bottom.
Outdoor Housing
Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered during warm weather months. A child’s wading pool sunk into the ground in a secure enclosure makes for a serviceable outdoor habitat. Larger ponds with advanced filtration can be used to provide a spectacular outdoor home for your Leaf turtles.
Diet
This Genus is a true omnivore; the diet in the wild consists of figs, fruits, carrion, fish, and crustaceans. In captivity this should be duplicated as closely as possible. Be careful not to overfeed your Cyclemys as obesity is a common problem. Feeding 2 to 3 times a week for adult turtles and small amounts every day to every other day for rapidly growing hatchlings is appropriate. Leaf turtles will readily accept many of the commercially prepared turtle diets that exist on the market today.
The diet offered should consist of:
Commercially prepared turtle diets such as Purina Aquamax or Mazuri freshwater turtle diet
Fruits (figs and soft fruits)
Insects
Worms
Fish
Additional calcium supplementation is necessary if the commercially prepared nutritionally complete diets do not make up a large portion of the diet. Powdered calcium with vitamin D3 can be sprinkled all foods. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended.
Medical
Newly imported Cyclemys often need immediate medical care. This species is often exposed to a number of pathogens in the Asian markets and thus needs prompt medical attention. Septicemia and protozoal infections are the norm for newly imported animals.
As dosage information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and potentially dangerous, please work closely with your veterinarian to care for your animals.
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
World Chelonian Trust
685 Bridge Street Plaza PMB# 292
Owatonna, MN
55060
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance / reproduction plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
Presently the genus Cyclemys is split into 4 species. It is almost certain that this will be further split as further research is done on this wide-ranging genus. Much like the map turtles (Graptemys) of the American Midwest and South, there are distinct differences between populations found in different river drainages. Though Cyclemys species are often called Asian leaf turtles, this often leads to some confusion with other chelonians that have the word “leaf” in their common name such as the Black-breasted or Vietnamese leaf turtle (Geomyda spengleri) as well as the Vietnam leaf turtle (Annamemys annamensis).
At the present time this species is a frequent import in the pet trade. This may change though because of its presence in the Asian food markets. The availability of Leaf turtles as wild caught specimens is certain to decline in the coming years unless rapid changes are made in the culinary and traditional medicine practices of that part of the world. For more information on this please see the "Animal Markets of China" hosted by the World Chelonian Trust at http://www.chelonia.org/. Luckily at the present time Cyclemys dentata is being captive bred with some frequency and the other species are sure to follow as breeders focus more on this Genus.
Cyclemys have a rounded carapace (hence the Generic name which means “Circle turtle”) and grow to about 25 cm (10 inches) in length. The base color is usually a variation of brown with the plastron and sometimes the carapace showing radiating lines on each scute. Cyclemys possess a distinct vertebral keel and a serrated rear carapacial margin. This is much more pronounced in the young and may offer some protection against predators such as frogs or fish that may opportunistically attempt to swallow the spiky shelled hatchlings. Large adults develop a transverse plastral hinge, which, in the case of females, may allow for easier egg passage during ovipositioning.
Young Cyclemys are fairly aquatic and can be kept much like any other basking turtle. They do appear to become more terrestrial as they age with adults spending much of their time on land. In the wild, Cyclemys are found in or near ponds, small rivers, and slow moving streams. They are not strong swimmers preferring instead to walk on the bottom of a body of water rather than swimming freely. According to Das5 adults spend their nights on land and move to water during the day.
Thanks to the success that breeders are having with the species (at least Cyclemys dentata) it is now possible to purchase hatchlings from captive born stock. Such specimens are much more desirable as pets as they are much healthier and well acclimated to captivity.
Housing Leaf Turtles Indoors
The most useful form of indoor accommodation for hatchling Cyclemys consists of an aquarium. For hatchlings we suggest a water depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) with one end built up with rocks to provide a dry basking spot. A reasonable sized aquarium for a hatchling is a 20 gallon: 30 inches by 12 inches, (75 cm by 30 cm). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased.
Water quality is very important. Many problems with Leaf turtles can be averted if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. Hatchlings are sometimes difficult to provide good filtration for because of the depth of the water. For these a submersible foam filer or power filter and frequent water changes is the rule.
In one corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be positioned over the dry basking area to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a focal basking spot of 90 degrees F or so (32 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 synthesis (necessary for calcium metabolism). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills both heat and UV requirements. Live or plastic aquatic plants are suggested to provide a sense of security and hiding places.
For adults an environment that is at least 50% land is recommended. The water should be at a depth that the animal may easily reach the surface while standing on the bottom.
Outdoor Housing
Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered during warm weather months. A child’s wading pool sunk into the ground in a secure enclosure makes for a serviceable outdoor habitat. Larger ponds with advanced filtration can be used to provide a spectacular outdoor home for your Leaf turtles.
Diet
This Genus is a true omnivore; the diet in the wild consists of figs, fruits, carrion, fish, and crustaceans. In captivity this should be duplicated as closely as possible. Be careful not to overfeed your Cyclemys as obesity is a common problem. Feeding 2 to 3 times a week for adult turtles and small amounts every day to every other day for rapidly growing hatchlings is appropriate. Leaf turtles will readily accept many of the commercially prepared turtle diets that exist on the market today.
The diet offered should consist of:
Commercially prepared turtle diets such as Purina Aquamax or Mazuri freshwater turtle diet
Fruits (figs and soft fruits)
Insects
Worms
Fish
Additional calcium supplementation is necessary if the commercially prepared nutritionally complete diets do not make up a large portion of the diet. Powdered calcium with vitamin D3 can be sprinkled all foods. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended.
Medical
Newly imported Cyclemys often need immediate medical care. This species is often exposed to a number of pathogens in the Asian markets and thus needs prompt medical attention. Septicemia and protozoal infections are the norm for newly imported animals.
As dosage information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and potentially dangerous, please work closely with your veterinarian to care for your animals.
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
World Chelonian Trust
685 Bridge Street Plaza PMB# 292
Owatonna, MN
55060
Care Sheet for Red-eared Sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans)
By Darrell Senneke of the World Chelonian Trust
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
The most common “Pet Shop Turtle” throughout the years has been the Red-ear slider. It is massively farmed and millions are produced every year. While traditionally the purchase of one of these turtles resulted in its death a few weeks or months later, present knowledge and technology makes it an easily maintained animal as long as a person is willing to provide some basic requirements.
Housing Sliders Indoors
The most useful form of indoor accommodation for Sliders consists of an aquarium. For hatchlings I would suggest a water depth of 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) with one end built up with rocks to provide a dry basking spot. A reasonable size aquarium for a hatchling is a 20 gallon - 30 inches by 12 inches, (75 cm by 30 cm). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased. All Sliders are excellent swimmers so water depth is not as critical a factor as they get older.. A depth of 10 inches up to 30 inches (20 cm to 60 cm) would be fine for turtles between 4 inches (10 cm) and adult size. Adult size of the Red-ear subspecies can reach 11 inches, Cumberland and Yellow-bellies Sliders stay somewhat smaller.
Water quality is very important. Many problems with aquatic turtles can be averted if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. For adult sliders we advise canister filters as they are easily cleaned and provide for excellent water quality. Hatchlings are more difficult to provide good filtration for because of the depth of the water, for these a submersible foam filer or power filter and frequent water changes is the rule.
In one corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be used to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F or so (32 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills both heat and UV requirements. Live or plastic aquatic plants are suggested to provide a sense of security and hiding places.
Outdoor Housing
Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered as an option during warm weather. A child’s wading pool sunk into the ground in a secure enclosure makes for a serviceable outdoor habitat. Larger ponds with advanced filtration can be used to provide a spectacular outdoor home for your Slider.
Diet
Be careful not to overfeed your Slider. I recommend only feeding 2 to 3 times a week for adult turtles and every day or every other day for the rapidly growing hatchlings. Sliders will consume vegetables, greens such as mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion, spinach, carrots, zucchini and any aquatic vegetation, i.e. duckweed, water lettuce, water hyacinth, etc. They will also consume insects, worms and fish. Many of the commercially prepared turtle diets that exist on the market today are excellent Slider food.
Additional calcium supplementation is essential. Powdered calcium can be sprinkled all foods. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended.
These species hibernate in nature. After careful research of methods used to safely do this, hibernation facilities may be provided for the turtle.
Be aware that hatchlings GROW!
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
http://www.chelonia.org/ - World Chelonian Trust
World Chelonian Trust
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
From the World Chelonian Trust website at http://www.chelonia.org
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
The most common “Pet Shop Turtle” throughout the years has been the Red-ear slider. It is massively farmed and millions are produced every year. While traditionally the purchase of one of these turtles resulted in its death a few weeks or months later, present knowledge and technology makes it an easily maintained animal as long as a person is willing to provide some basic requirements.
Housing Sliders Indoors
The most useful form of indoor accommodation for Sliders consists of an aquarium. For hatchlings I would suggest a water depth of 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) with one end built up with rocks to provide a dry basking spot. A reasonable size aquarium for a hatchling is a 20 gallon - 30 inches by 12 inches, (75 cm by 30 cm). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased. All Sliders are excellent swimmers so water depth is not as critical a factor as they get older.. A depth of 10 inches up to 30 inches (20 cm to 60 cm) would be fine for turtles between 4 inches (10 cm) and adult size. Adult size of the Red-ear subspecies can reach 11 inches, Cumberland and Yellow-bellies Sliders stay somewhat smaller.
Water quality is very important. Many problems with aquatic turtles can be averted if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. For adult sliders we advise canister filters as they are easily cleaned and provide for excellent water quality. Hatchlings are more difficult to provide good filtration for because of the depth of the water, for these a submersible foam filer or power filter and frequent water changes is the rule.
In one corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be used to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F or so (32 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills both heat and UV requirements. Live or plastic aquatic plants are suggested to provide a sense of security and hiding places.
Outdoor Housing
Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered as an option during warm weather. A child’s wading pool sunk into the ground in a secure enclosure makes for a serviceable outdoor habitat. Larger ponds with advanced filtration can be used to provide a spectacular outdoor home for your Slider.
Diet
Be careful not to overfeed your Slider. I recommend only feeding 2 to 3 times a week for adult turtles and every day or every other day for the rapidly growing hatchlings. Sliders will consume vegetables, greens such as mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion, spinach, carrots, zucchini and any aquatic vegetation, i.e. duckweed, water lettuce, water hyacinth, etc. They will also consume insects, worms and fish. Many of the commercially prepared turtle diets that exist on the market today are excellent Slider food.
Additional calcium supplementation is essential. Powdered calcium can be sprinkled all foods. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended.
These species hibernate in nature. After careful research of methods used to safely do this, hibernation facilities may be provided for the turtle.
Be aware that hatchlings GROW!
It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at http://www.chelonia.org/. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
http://www.chelonia.org/ - World Chelonian Trust
World Chelonian Trust
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
My Turtles...
During many years living in Indonesia, one of my most absorbing hobbies has been the acquisition and keeping of a small collection of freshwater turtles. When my daughter was just a couple of years old she was given a pair of Brazilian Red-Eared Sliders (RES) by a relative. I had planned to dig a small pond in the garden anyway and the growing turtles gave me further reason, and that is what we did.
I had a pond dug with a surface area of around eight metres and with varying depths, perhaps around 30cm at the deepest. Over part of it we had constructed a small saung-style shelter, a kind of gazebo, so we could enjoy sitting out in the garden, overlooking the fish and turtles.
The two RES grew and I began to learn more about their care. I learned that this species had already become a pest in the USA where many had escaped or been discarded in the wild, subsequently displacing indigenous species. RES are very aggressive and competitive animals and they can easily succeed in monopolising limited food resources in their environment.
The same is true, and perhaps sadly more so in Indonesia, where these turtles with their characteristic green-hued shells and skins with red flashes along their faces, are seemingly on sale in every pet shop and even on every footbridge. Often at just a few thousand rupiah each, people assume they will make good, cheap, low-maintenance pets for their children. They do not. As they grow they require space and a clean environment. They can be aggressive and draw blood when they bite or scratch. Many are discarded, unwanted, and have already begun to displace less-aggressive, less competitive, indigenous Indonesian species.
Knowing this, I was not interested in having any more, but as my daughter’s friends’ own RES began to out-grow their welcome we were asked to take them in. So, I had six at various stages of development. My real interest however, was Indonesian turtles. Attending one of the frequent flora and fauna fairs that one sees at malls and shopping centres, I noticed an odd-looking turtle, the only one of its kind, which I was interested to acquire. For the first time I bought a turtle from a trader.
Understanding the devastation that trappers and traders bring to wild species by their activities, I was not happy with what I had done. I discussed it with people I had come to know on my turtle email group, and most agreed that while acquiring a wild-caught specimen or pair was undesirable, it could be accepted if it was done with the intention of breeding captive animals. Not knowing what I had, I sent a photo to an expert I had identified at Monkey Frog in the USA, which I found on the internet. I got news back via email within a couple of days. They did not know what I had either. But the next day I got a second email correctly identifying the turtle as a very old Asian Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys dentata).
This turtle is indigenous to most of South East Asia and India. They have dark, reddish or brown carapaces (upper shells). These are quite round in shape with serrations around the back edges, preventing it from becoming a prey animal too easily. I had read about their dietary requirements, and after a period of getting used to its new environment, mine began to feed on a combination of commercial fish and turtle foods (including freeze-dried blood worm), frozen blood worms, small feeder fish that I periodically introduce to the pond, larger fish I buy from supermarkets or markets as well as a selection of chopped soft fruit and vegetables (bananas in particular). They will also readily take meat and chicken scraps.
One of the most interesting aspects of this hobby is observing the different behaviour patterns of the various turtles. My Asian Leaf Turtle has its own designated areas in the pond where it likes to sit, submerged. Every day it leaves the pond and sits in any one of around three different sites it has dug or acquired for itself around the garden. One is under some small shrubs, another is among tall stems close to the pond and the third an initially most popular is under the air conditioning unit, where there is a space of approximately 10cm in which to crawl and sit out the day. Younger animals would spend more time in the water, but this mature female specimen has a regular daily routine of outings and walks. In the rain she is particularly active, walking around in the puddles from pond to shrubs.
Competing for the space under the air conditioning unit is another turtle acquired from a relative. This is a turtle popularly considered to be from Ambon though it is indigenous to much of Indonesia and South East Asia, Cuora amboiensis. This animal spends much of the day under the unit, retiring to the pond at night. It is very singular in its habits, though has since been joined a by a juvenile of the same species which is apparently aspiring to mirror its behaviour. I have not determined the sex of either of these turtles. Though interesting, I do not plan to breed them.
I then acquired another turtle, though I was not to own it for long. I had seen pictures of a very beautiful small turtle commonly know as Malaysian Snail Eating Turtle (Malayemys subtrijuga). This turtle is found in Cambodia, China, Indonesia (Java and Sumatra), Laos, Peninsular Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam.
When I spotted a tank of several, I bought one on impulse. This reddish-brown turtle with a distinctive white line around the edge of its upper shell (carapace) and a yellow-striped face, feeds largely on snails, which I keep live in a separate container, along with a stock of small feeder fish. This turtle did not take readily to its new environment and would not feed. Turtles can live for weeks, sometimes months without food. Perhaps this specimen was already sick. It died within a week.
The last turtle I acquired and the one which led to my decision not to acquire any more was my White Bellied Snapping Turtle (Elseya branderhorsti). One UK-based collector and trader, Tom Halvorsen (http://www.tomhalvorsen.co.uk/info/whitebelliedsnapper.htm) has said that the White Bellied Snapping Turtle…an amazingly cute turtle…is one of the most appealing species of the reptile world. Mine was certainly an interesting and absorbing animal to watch. The species is indigenous to Western and Southern Papua and Papua New Guinea. It may also be found in Sulawesi.
Tom Halvorsen claims that they are fairly undemanding in terms of husbandry in captivity, but I must admit I had difficulty in getting mine to feed. It appeared terminally shy and nervous around other turtles, and I was concerned that it would outgrow the pond and its pond-mates (they can reach 40cm across the carapace or top-most shell). I approached Dr. Amy at Taman Safari with a view to donating it to their collection. They agreed and with my daughter we drove up with the turtle. After a period of three months quarantine it was released to its enclosure where it is apparently doing very well.
A very useful site to visit for information and care sheets on turtles is the site of the World Chelonian Trust and its accompanying email group which is moderated by turtle and tortoise expert Darrell Senneke. Hobbyists could contact the site to learn about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
One of the most fun parts of collecting my turtles was the initial process of species identification. When I acquired a turtle I would photograph it and upload it to galleries of turtle site I knew, requesting experts via email to either identify it or give me further information. When I found the World Chelonian Trust site the process became much easier. All I had to do was look at photos galleries of Asian turtles to know which species I had. This I was able to do successfully for my Malaysian Snail Eating Turtle (Malayemys subtrijuga), my Black Marsh Turtle (Siebenrockiella crassicollis) and my White Bellied Snapping Turtle (Elseya branderhorsti).
Having collected so many different species and having begun to encounter some limited though disconcerting aggression among some of the turtles, I decided that I had enough. I took the advice I had been given by WCT expert, Darrell Senneke and Mary Hopson at the Turtle Puddle (http://www.turtlepuddle.org/). Following some debate about my collection on the group, they had suggested I trim back the group and concentrate on one of two species, breeding them if possible. What I had not realised during my acquisition of turtles was that they really do not do well when mixed with other species. I had also not given due consideration to the required period of quarantine, risking exposing the group to infection from the introduction of new animals. This, I resolved to remedy.
Retaining my daughter’s original two RES and two other smaller specimens (including one male), I donated two large, fully grown specimens to a nature reserve with an enclosed lake. There, they enjoy a natural life but cannot escape to the wider environment. I still had my Asian Leaf Turtle and my Black Marsh Turtle. I intended to acquire mates for these and attempt breeding the species. I also had my fully-grown Ambonese turtle (Cuora Amboiensis) as well as a juvenile. Their habits and needs are so different from those of the other turtles that there is no conflict or competition among them. There was no reason to find a new home for them.
Now I have a stable environment for my turtles. I know quite a few traders though I am not tempted to purchase any new turtles. I hope that anyone attracted to this hobby will be able to make a wiser decision than I initially did about the number and nature of species that you will have. These animals do make attractive, responsive pets, even RES. However, they do need care and a suitable environment.
I had a pond dug with a surface area of around eight metres and with varying depths, perhaps around 30cm at the deepest. Over part of it we had constructed a small saung-style shelter, a kind of gazebo, so we could enjoy sitting out in the garden, overlooking the fish and turtles.
The two RES grew and I began to learn more about their care. I learned that this species had already become a pest in the USA where many had escaped or been discarded in the wild, subsequently displacing indigenous species. RES are very aggressive and competitive animals and they can easily succeed in monopolising limited food resources in their environment.
The same is true, and perhaps sadly more so in Indonesia, where these turtles with their characteristic green-hued shells and skins with red flashes along their faces, are seemingly on sale in every pet shop and even on every footbridge. Often at just a few thousand rupiah each, people assume they will make good, cheap, low-maintenance pets for their children. They do not. As they grow they require space and a clean environment. They can be aggressive and draw blood when they bite or scratch. Many are discarded, unwanted, and have already begun to displace less-aggressive, less competitive, indigenous Indonesian species.
Knowing this, I was not interested in having any more, but as my daughter’s friends’ own RES began to out-grow their welcome we were asked to take them in. So, I had six at various stages of development. My real interest however, was Indonesian turtles. Attending one of the frequent flora and fauna fairs that one sees at malls and shopping centres, I noticed an odd-looking turtle, the only one of its kind, which I was interested to acquire. For the first time I bought a turtle from a trader.
Understanding the devastation that trappers and traders bring to wild species by their activities, I was not happy with what I had done. I discussed it with people I had come to know on my turtle email group, and most agreed that while acquiring a wild-caught specimen or pair was undesirable, it could be accepted if it was done with the intention of breeding captive animals. Not knowing what I had, I sent a photo to an expert I had identified at Monkey Frog in the USA, which I found on the internet. I got news back via email within a couple of days. They did not know what I had either. But the next day I got a second email correctly identifying the turtle as a very old Asian Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys dentata).
This turtle is indigenous to most of South East Asia and India. They have dark, reddish or brown carapaces (upper shells). These are quite round in shape with serrations around the back edges, preventing it from becoming a prey animal too easily. I had read about their dietary requirements, and after a period of getting used to its new environment, mine began to feed on a combination of commercial fish and turtle foods (including freeze-dried blood worm), frozen blood worms, small feeder fish that I periodically introduce to the pond, larger fish I buy from supermarkets or markets as well as a selection of chopped soft fruit and vegetables (bananas in particular). They will also readily take meat and chicken scraps.
One of the most interesting aspects of this hobby is observing the different behaviour patterns of the various turtles. My Asian Leaf Turtle has its own designated areas in the pond where it likes to sit, submerged. Every day it leaves the pond and sits in any one of around three different sites it has dug or acquired for itself around the garden. One is under some small shrubs, another is among tall stems close to the pond and the third an initially most popular is under the air conditioning unit, where there is a space of approximately 10cm in which to crawl and sit out the day. Younger animals would spend more time in the water, but this mature female specimen has a regular daily routine of outings and walks. In the rain she is particularly active, walking around in the puddles from pond to shrubs.
Competing for the space under the air conditioning unit is another turtle acquired from a relative. This is a turtle popularly considered to be from Ambon though it is indigenous to much of Indonesia and South East Asia, Cuora amboiensis. This animal spends much of the day under the unit, retiring to the pond at night. It is very singular in its habits, though has since been joined a by a juvenile of the same species which is apparently aspiring to mirror its behaviour. I have not determined the sex of either of these turtles. Though interesting, I do not plan to breed them.
I then acquired another turtle, though I was not to own it for long. I had seen pictures of a very beautiful small turtle commonly know as Malaysian Snail Eating Turtle (Malayemys subtrijuga). This turtle is found in Cambodia, China, Indonesia (Java and Sumatra), Laos, Peninsular Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam.
When I spotted a tank of several, I bought one on impulse. This reddish-brown turtle with a distinctive white line around the edge of its upper shell (carapace) and a yellow-striped face, feeds largely on snails, which I keep live in a separate container, along with a stock of small feeder fish. This turtle did not take readily to its new environment and would not feed. Turtles can live for weeks, sometimes months without food. Perhaps this specimen was already sick. It died within a week.
The last turtle I acquired and the one which led to my decision not to acquire any more was my White Bellied Snapping Turtle (Elseya branderhorsti). One UK-based collector and trader, Tom Halvorsen (http://www.tomhalvorsen.co.uk/info/whitebelliedsnapper.htm) has said that the White Bellied Snapping Turtle…an amazingly cute turtle…is one of the most appealing species of the reptile world. Mine was certainly an interesting and absorbing animal to watch. The species is indigenous to Western and Southern Papua and Papua New Guinea. It may also be found in Sulawesi.
Tom Halvorsen claims that they are fairly undemanding in terms of husbandry in captivity, but I must admit I had difficulty in getting mine to feed. It appeared terminally shy and nervous around other turtles, and I was concerned that it would outgrow the pond and its pond-mates (they can reach 40cm across the carapace or top-most shell). I approached Dr. Amy at Taman Safari with a view to donating it to their collection. They agreed and with my daughter we drove up with the turtle. After a period of three months quarantine it was released to its enclosure where it is apparently doing very well.
A very useful site to visit for information and care sheets on turtles is the site of the World Chelonian Trust and its accompanying email group which is moderated by turtle and tortoise expert Darrell Senneke. Hobbyists could contact the site to learn about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
One of the most fun parts of collecting my turtles was the initial process of species identification. When I acquired a turtle I would photograph it and upload it to galleries of turtle site I knew, requesting experts via email to either identify it or give me further information. When I found the World Chelonian Trust site the process became much easier. All I had to do was look at photos galleries of Asian turtles to know which species I had. This I was able to do successfully for my Malaysian Snail Eating Turtle (Malayemys subtrijuga), my Black Marsh Turtle (Siebenrockiella crassicollis) and my White Bellied Snapping Turtle (Elseya branderhorsti).
Having collected so many different species and having begun to encounter some limited though disconcerting aggression among some of the turtles, I decided that I had enough. I took the advice I had been given by WCT expert, Darrell Senneke and Mary Hopson at the Turtle Puddle (http://www.turtlepuddle.org/). Following some debate about my collection on the group, they had suggested I trim back the group and concentrate on one of two species, breeding them if possible. What I had not realised during my acquisition of turtles was that they really do not do well when mixed with other species. I had also not given due consideration to the required period of quarantine, risking exposing the group to infection from the introduction of new animals. This, I resolved to remedy.
Retaining my daughter’s original two RES and two other smaller specimens (including one male), I donated two large, fully grown specimens to a nature reserve with an enclosed lake. There, they enjoy a natural life but cannot escape to the wider environment. I still had my Asian Leaf Turtle and my Black Marsh Turtle. I intended to acquire mates for these and attempt breeding the species. I also had my fully-grown Ambonese turtle (Cuora Amboiensis) as well as a juvenile. Their habits and needs are so different from those of the other turtles that there is no conflict or competition among them. There was no reason to find a new home for them.
Now I have a stable environment for my turtles. I know quite a few traders though I am not tempted to purchase any new turtles. I hope that anyone attracted to this hobby will be able to make a wiser decision than I initially did about the number and nature of species that you will have. These animals do make attractive, responsive pets, even RES. However, they do need care and a suitable environment.
Life by the pond side...
In much of Indonesia the keeping of turtles is considered lucky. I keep a number of Indonesian species, both males and females. They include the Asian Leaf Turtle (Clyclemys Dentata); the Malayan or Ambonese Box Turtle (Cuoro Amboiensis) and the Black Marsh Turtle from Indonesian Borneo or Kalimantan (Siebenrockiella Crassicollis). I also have a single male specimen of the Forsteni Indotestudo tortoise from Indonesia's Sulawesi Island. Pictures of each will eventually be posted here.
They are all very easy to keep, in this tropical environment, and very interesting to observe. Each maintains its own general position and habits in the pond and garden. They each have a routine for exiting the pond, feeding, patrolling the garden for food, sunning themselves on the rocks and other activities. I will post news from time to time.
A peaceful pond provides a respite from the stresses of a busy city like Jakarta, so drop in from time to time and share some practical tranquility with me here at the pond!
They are all very easy to keep, in this tropical environment, and very interesting to observe. Each maintains its own general position and habits in the pond and garden. They each have a routine for exiting the pond, feeding, patrolling the garden for food, sunning themselves on the rocks and other activities. I will post news from time to time.
A peaceful pond provides a respite from the stresses of a busy city like Jakarta, so drop in from time to time and share some practical tranquility with me here at the pond!
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